I need to run a gas (LP) line from outside the house to a cooktop in the kitchen. Here's what I think I need to do:

  1. drill a hole in the exterior wall and the header (from the attic) of the same wall
  2. connect a 90° joint to Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST), drop it through the hole drilled in the header and fish it through the hole in the exterior wall
  3. connect a short piece of black pipe to the elbow, and connect it to the regulator installed by the propane supplier
  4. the other end of the CSST would run through the attic and down through another hole in the header of the kitchen wall
  5. connect to cooktop (I will, of course, use the supplied conversion kit)

This is the plan I've assimilated from research, much of it conflicting. So I'm sure it needs some adjustments. Here are my questions:

  1. from what I've read CSST is the way to go, but how do you protect it from fasteners going into the wall?
  2. I assumed short legs of black pipe should be used at the ends, since it probably looks better coming out of the wall, unless...is there some kind of wall plate/jack that could be used?

Is this approach generally sound? Anything else I should consider?

  • You may want to consider contacting a pipefitter, since working with gas can be hazardous to your health. – Tester101 Oct 8 '12 at 18:56
  • Isn't the DIY ethos if a pro can do it, so can I? – Daniel Oct 8 '12 at 18:58
  • I think the exception to that, is when you can easily blow your house up because of a tiny mistake. – Tester101 Oct 8 '12 at 19:03
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    If it's any solace, this will be done prior to the propane tank being set up, and the propane company has said they'll run an end-to-end test at that time. – Daniel Oct 8 '12 at 19:07
  • That's a LOT of solace. – Chris Cudmore Oct 10 '12 at 0:43

Corrugated pipe is generally intended only to be used as the last connection to an appliance, in a living space where it not vulnerable to banging or jostling (usually behind or in a space at the bottom of an appliance), but where it can be seen and accessed if work is being done. It is not intended to be buried in a wall, where it could be pierced by a random fastener driven blindly.

It is also only used where an appliance needs to be moved to connect or disconnect it to the supply line. In all other cases and places, solid black pipe should be used, not corrugated. Solid should be run to the connection right before the stove, a cutoff valve should be installed at that point before attaching a short length of corrugated between the stove and the valve.

Having said all this, I join in the various suggestions that you engage a professional plumber (pipefitter). I know how to do it, I have done it in the past, and I would NOT do it again. The risks are very high, and a simple oversight (common to many a DIYer) is disastrous. The pros avoid those oversights because of long practice.

Please stay safe.

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  • How would run black pipe vertically in a wall? There isn't enough headroom in the attic to drop it through the header. – Daniel Oct 8 '12 at 21:40
  • Why wouldn't you do it again? – Daniel Oct 8 '12 at 21:40
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    @Daniel My worst personal experience was a minor flash burn from a balky pilot light. However, a professor of mine was killed in a gas explosion that destroyed his whole house. A local man was killed, along with his plumber neighbor, trying to fix a badly installed gas line. – bib Oct 8 '12 at 21:45
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    @Daniel You may have to open the wall and then repair it. It sounds annoying, but doing it right is often just as fast and may avoid the unexpected glitches that can come up when you try to take short cuts. – bib Oct 8 '12 at 21:47
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    I am most likely going to do that. But one of my reasons for asking is to be better informed to discuss this with and ultimately choose a pro. – Daniel Oct 8 '12 at 22:23

Daniel, I will also add to the suggestions of hiring a professional. Run solid pipe though the walls. It will have to be cut the right lenght, threaded, and then assembled in place. The threads need sealant. The whole thing will be pressure tested (preferably overnight). Codes require things like a cut off valve near the appliance. With black pipe in the wall, you don't have to worry as much about poking a hole in it with a nail or screw. A pro may have a better idea about where to route the line. Is the line already in the attic or are you running a new line from outside? If from outside, why go up to the attic and not straight throught the wall?

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The CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) is approved as a drop and in concealed stud cavities; however, the manufacturer's installation instruction regarding protecting the piping in the stud cavity needs to be followed. Usually strip wound conduit is required for 12" from locations that secure the csst (terminations and penetration at the top or bottom plates).

Removing and repairing the drywall is the best solution and then running sch. 40 steel pipe in the wall and use the csst for the run to the tie-in.

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Although this was posted years ago, I figure DIYers still read through this today. If you're not a licensed professional, read through Home-Flex's Installation manual, it is free online. Essentially, there are protective barriers available now, such as striker plates and protective conduits for installation in a wall.

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Always use solid pipe in walls. And, for safety, always pressurize the line with air, seal, and make sure the pressure is maintained for a couple of days before hooking up any combustible gas.

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