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Our washing machine hammers really hard and shake pipes through the house. I've installed a few more supports for the pipes in the basement and that has helped, but it still hammers really hard and we want to quiet it down but also be sure that there is no damage being cause to the piping or the machine.

There is a cheap option that might make sense to try first (I'll need two - hot and cold) that is not lead safe: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-660-H-Mini-Rester-Water-Hammer-Arrestor-3-4-F-Swivel-Hose-Thread-x-3-4-M-Hose-Thread-Tee

at 4x the cost of the above, the lead free option that I've found is to use these two together: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0121229-LF150HA-3-4-Lead-Free-Thread-for-1-2-Water-Hammer-Arrestor https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-652-A-Hydra-Rester-Commercial-Water-Hammer-Arrester-1-2-MIP-Thread

I Don't plan on drinking water out of my washing machine, but my concern is that without a check valve between this and the rest of the piping, is it best to go with lead free so as to prevent contaminated mixing back into the rest of the house?

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If you are concerned about saving money, get the "not lead safe" one as this is a non-potable water installation.

If you are paranoid about lead and the remote possibility that a significant amount of lead could backflow from the cheaper arrester installation into your drinking water then spend the extra money on the lead-free certified product.

This is, in my opinion, an example of warnings gone awry where the actual danger is so remote as to be implausible. I doubt that the less expensive product contains any lead at all but if you feel the need to be 100% certified then why are you quibbling about a few dollars?

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  • I thought code required all components to be lead free connected to a residential water system. Many washers are on a dead end so I understand your point but code in my jurisdiction is for lead free on a residential system. – Ed Beal Mar 12 at 13:56
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    @EdBeal in that case the choice is moot. If code requires certified lead-free for all fittings then regardless of the cost, a lead free arrester is required. – jwh20 Mar 12 at 14:27
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    I was not sure if it was a local thing or not. – Ed Beal Mar 12 at 14:45
  • I guess this is the problem with people like me wanting to do easy upgrades without knowing the codes! for the extra $50, LF is probably just better all around I guess. And I suppose the fact that there (at least in some localities) codes requiring that all connected fittings be LF, suggests that my thinking was in the right direction, however low the risk or may not be. – Zipper1365 Mar 12 at 15:40

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