I am installing a new 2020 manufactured home on my land about 40' from a permanent underground 200A service meter-center/meter-main panel (Eaton MBE2040B200BTS). This panel currently only has 2 circuits in it: a 110V 20A utility outdoor GFCI circuit and a 30A 220V RV hookup. Both receptacles are installed on the same post as the panel and two ground rods are installed. The manufactured home comes equipped with a Siemens MB2040B1200G 200A indoor main panel with the neutral and ground busses disconnected. The manufactured home will be installed on a "permanent foundation" consisting of a concrete perimeter wall with a crawlspace.

Here's what I'm thinking: Add an Eaton BRS225 main lug kit to the outdoor meter-main panel and connect 4/0-4/0-2/0-4 Aluminum Mobile Home Feeder Cable(RHH/RHW-2) to the Siemens panel in the manufactured home. I'll use Schedule 80 conduit where the cable is inside the crawlspace and also where it drops from the Eaton Meter-Main panel. The rest of the run will be direct burial without conduit. I'll leave a 6in section of rebar sticking out of the top of the foundation wall and connected to the main horizontal rebar in the footer as a Ufer. I'll use a rebar rated connector to connect to bare #4Cu and run that to the ground bus bar in the Siemens panel.

Questions: Do I need an additional disconnect outside? Will my Ufer be all the grounding I need? Am I on the right track? Thanks!!

EDIT: Here are photos of the breakers in the manufactured home panel. Labels showing the circuits circuits circuits

EDIT2: Here is the main HUD label from under the kitchen sink. (This is the same model house but mine is not built yet) and an electrical info plate outside on the wall. HUD Label Plate

EDIT3: Here's 2 new photos of the 200A outdoor panel with the 20A and 30A circuits in it. outdoor label outdoor breakers

  • That Siemens panel is a 20-space. Very small. If you can get that changed, you'll want to. Mar 12, 2020 at 8:13
  • Huh I thought 20spaces was standard. It comes from the factory with electric furnace, washer, dryer, WH, range, dishwasher, fridge and microwave and that uses 11 spaces. 9 free. Mar 12, 2020 at 19:24
  • That's 12 spaces worth of stuff and you haven't mentioned the various recep and lighting circuits. The only way that all fits in 11 spaces is double-stuff breakers. Those don't come in AFCI, which need full spaces. That's what makes 20-space panels untenable since 2014 NEC. It's worse for 2017 and much worse for 2020. Mar 12, 2020 at 22:05
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    @Harper HUD labelled manufactured housing are still subject to 2005 NEC per CFR Title 24 Part 3280.801. Arc faults not required. govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2019-title24-vol5/xml/… Mar 12, 2020 at 22:45
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    I added some photos. ThreePhaseEel, Is that the HUD label you wanted to see? Mar 13, 2020 at 15:09

2 Answers 2


Good news: you didn't paint yourself into the corner I originally feared

When you originally asked about service equipment, my prime concern was that you simply couldn't get a 200A breaker or subfeed lug block to fit in the panel you had originally selected; however, that appears to not be a major concern for this panel, as it is labeled to accept the BRS(F)225 subfeed lug kit as well as the type BJ breaker, which is the double-frame version of the type BR used for loads up to 225A.

As a result, your plan with the BRS(F)225 subfeed lug block is acceptable, especially considering you'll be putting a disconnect on the outside of the house in any case. Also, the use of tri-rated MHF cable here is fine; the tri-rating (RHH/RHW-2/USE-2) allows it to be freely run within conduit in addition to permitting direct burial usage, and the fact it's an unjacketed multiplex cable means that it doesn't hog fill the way a jacketed cable does. This is set out in Chapter 9, Note 9:

(9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable, or flexible cord of two or more conductors shall be treated as a single conductor for calculating percentage conduit or tubing fill area. For cables that have elliptical cross sections, the cross-sectional area calculation shall be based on using the major diameter of the ellipse as a circle diameter. Assemblies of single insulated conductors without an overall covering shall not be considered a cable when determining conduit or tubing fill area. The conduit or tubing fill for the assemblies shall be calculated based upon the individual conductors.

As to the extra loads? As long as a load calculation comes out OK, I wouldn't worry about it

I would not concern myself with the additional loads in the outdoor panel beyond running a load calculation to make sure you aren't overloading the service if someone plugs a RV in while the house is wired up. Moving them to the indoor panel is just a silly waste of wire, if you ask me, and their current location is permitted by NEC 550.32(E):

(E) Additional Receptacles. Additional receptacles shall be permitted for connection of electrical equipment located outside the mobile home, and all such 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles shall be protected by a listed ground-fault circuit interrupter.

Note also that that concrete-encased electrode should be amply sufficient for grounding the house, too; the NEC permits them to be used as a sole grounding electrode, and your proposed connection method should be workable, too, as long as you can find a clean way to get the GEC into the house. I would use an Arlington GC50 or equivalent when bringing the GEC into the panel by the way, if at all possible; this strain-relieves the conductor to the panel cabinet.

Bad news: you'll need an extra disconnect on the outside of the house

The bad news, though, is that you'll need an extra disconnecting means, rated for the full 200A feeder load, on the outside of this house; mounting it there is OK by 550.32(A)'s wording, and it also satisfies the 2020 NEC emergency disconnect requirements as well. The cheapest way to do this would be to bring the conduit up the outside of the house, then use an enclosed 200A, 2-pole breaker, such as an Eaton ECCVH200R or a GE TQD200NRE, with a matching ground bar kit fitted and its neutral bonding screw pulled to serve as the disconnecting means instead of simply LBing the conduit into the house.

  • Thanks so much for the detailed reply! This is so helpful. Since I need an outdoor disconnect, would it make sense to put a small panel on the side of the house with a few spaces in it in case I need other outdoor circuits (provided the load calculations show there is capacity)? The Eaton BR816B200RF BR 200 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Outdoor Main Breaker Loadcenter has built in feed-through lugs, and is actually cheaper than the outdoor breaker only. BR48B200RFP might be another option. Mar 15, 2020 at 17:27
  • Also does the ground from the Ufer connect inside the manufactured home or on the new panel/disconnect on the outside wall? And just to confirm since the meter/main panel is the "service entrance" the ground bus should be connected to neutral on that panel but not on either of the downstream panels at the manufactured home right? Mar 15, 2020 at 17:30
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    @MartinVandepas you could use the BR816B200RF instead of the enclosed circuit breaker, although I suspect most outdoor loads not directly associated with the house would be served from the meter-main anyway. You can connect the Ufer at either place, by the way, and you are correct about how the neutral/ground bonding works for this, as well Mar 15, 2020 at 22:31
  • Thank you for all the answers and your extremely clear language!!! Mar 16, 2020 at 2:27
  • OK so I've finally got the home placed and am wiring up the electrical service. I decided to move the home a few feet closer to the service so I don't think I need the cutoff on the outside of the house. The problem I'm stuck with now is that the ground/neutral bus in my Meter Main Panel (MBE2040B200BTS) wont accept the 2/0al neutral wire. It only goes up to 1/0. I bought a neutral lug kit (NL30), but the screw that attaches it to the bus bar wont fit into my neutral/ground bus. My panel this style bus bar: (BRGBK39512). What can I do now? Replace the bus bar? Thanks!! Sep 28, 2020 at 17:14

NEC 550.32(A) Mobile Home Service Equipment. ...in sight from and not more than 9.0m (30ft) from the exterior wall...

Note the NEC in 550.2 says "For the purpose of this Code...the term mobile home includes manufactured homes and excludes park trailers..."

I would expect the ufer ground to be good, but you probably should check with the local inspecting authority to make sure they don't have some odd interpretation or specific legacy additional requirement for mobiles. Other bonding requirements are usually factory performed, but you should check.

It could be interpreted that the 30A RV receptacle renders the available power at the pedestal for the mobile to be less than the minimum requirement on the HUD label. You could probably do a load calc if a "modular" home, but not a "mobile".

  • Thanks for the reply. Regarding the 30A RV circuit: If I took it out of the meter main panel and instead ran it off the Manufactured Home panel it would be OK? Mar 13, 2020 at 5:13
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    That would probably work. Requiring load calcs for added circuits is at the discretion of the local authority. Mar 13, 2020 at 6:10

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