Good news: you didn't paint yourself into the corner I originally feared
When you originally asked about service equipment, my prime concern was that you simply couldn't get a 200A breaker or subfeed lug block to fit in the panel you had originally selected; however, that appears to not be a major concern for this panel, as it is labeled to accept the BRS(F)225 subfeed lug kit as well as the type BJ breaker, which is the double-frame version of the type BR used for loads up to 225A.
As a result, your plan with the BRS(F)225 subfeed lug block is acceptable, especially considering you'll be putting a disconnect on the outside of the house in any case. Also, the use of tri-rated MHF cable here is fine; the tri-rating (RHH/RHW-2/USE-2) allows it to be freely run within conduit in addition to permitting direct burial usage, and the fact it's an unjacketed multiplex cable means that it doesn't hog fill the way a jacketed cable does. This is set out in Chapter 9, Note 9:
(9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable, or flexible
cord of two or more conductors shall be treated as a
single conductor for calculating percentage conduit or
tubing fill area. For cables that have elliptical cross
sections, the cross-sectional area calculation shall be
based on using the major diameter of the ellipse as a
circle diameter. Assemblies of single insulated conductors without an overall covering shall not be considered
a cable when determining conduit or tubing fill area.
The conduit or tubing fill for the assemblies shall be
calculated based upon the individual conductors.
As to the extra loads? As long as a load calculation comes out OK, I wouldn't worry about it
I would not concern myself with the additional loads in the outdoor panel beyond running a load calculation to make sure you aren't overloading the service if someone plugs a RV in while the house is wired up. Moving them to the indoor panel is just a silly waste of wire, if you ask me, and their current location is permitted by NEC 550.32(E):
(E) Additional Receptacles. Additional receptacles shall be
permitted for connection of electrical equipment located
outside the mobile home, and all such 125-volt, single-phase,
15- and 20-ampere receptacles shall be protected by a listed
ground-fault circuit interrupter.
Note also that that concrete-encased electrode should be amply sufficient for grounding the house, too; the NEC permits them to be used as a sole grounding electrode, and your proposed connection method should be workable, too, as long as you can find a clean way to get the GEC into the house. I would use an Arlington GC50 or equivalent when bringing the GEC into the panel by the way, if at all possible; this strain-relieves the conductor to the panel cabinet.
Bad news: you'll need an extra disconnect on the outside of the house
The bad news, though, is that you'll need an extra disconnecting means, rated for the full 200A feeder load, on the outside of this house; mounting it there is OK by 550.32(A)'s wording, and it also satisfies the 2020 NEC emergency disconnect requirements as well. The cheapest way to do this would be to bring the conduit up the outside of the house, then use an enclosed 200A, 2-pole breaker, such as an Eaton ECCVH200R or a GE TQD200NRE, with a matching ground bar kit fitted and its neutral bonding screw pulled to serve as the disconnecting means instead of simply LBing the conduit into the house.