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My dryer drum quit working but when we turn it on it heats up. I had a guy come out and look at and told me the heating element was bad and it was blowing fuses. He then gave me a quote for $230 is that the going rate?? I was wondering cause parts alone are less than $100

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    I would want to know how a bad heating element would still heat up, but somehow cause the drum to not spin. Sounds more like a broken belt or a bad motor or electrical connection. Also, the cost of parts has little to do with the cost of replacing them. A timing belt on a car can cost $20, but it can also be one of the most expensive maintenance jobs you can do... – JPhi1618 Feb 3 at 16:45
  • Do you mean to say that the drum doesn't rotate when the dryer is ON but that the heating element does get hot? In that case it's either the motor or more likely the drive belt has slipped off or has broken. But it does not sound like a bad heating element. What's the story on blowing fuses? Were you seeing that or was your service tech telling you that? – jwh20 Feb 3 at 18:00
  • Do you hear the motor spinning up? Or is it spooky silent? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Feb 4 at 1:16
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It sounds more like the belt on the drum broke. Most dryers are belt driven , it is possible if you turned it on enough times the NiChrome heating element over heated and broke.

There is normally a thermal fuse that blows to protect the element.

Prices are off topic as they quickly become obsolete, I have replaced belts, elements and the thermal fuses for under 100.

Find a local repair shop call them give them the model number and ask for the prices on these 3 parts. They are easy to replace. I am sure there are u-tube videos showing how to swap out the parts. I have kept driers working for decades with these parts and some rollers for the drum when they wore out.

You may not need all of them but this will give you an idea.

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There's a fair chance you lost a neutral wire

That would shut down all the 120V parts of the circuit, e.g. timer and drum motor. However the heating elements would still operate.

If your dryer plug is 4-pin, that's the end of the story. However, if your dryer has a 3-pin plug, this is actually a very dangerous situation. Loss of neutral electrifies the chassis of the dryer. The motor is trying to return 120V through the neutral, which is bonded to the dryer chassis, and with the neutral broken it will try to return it through any human who touches the dryer and also something grounded. This is a very bad "design" and you should get rid of 3-prong dryer connections as soon as able.

Turn the dryer off, unplug, then confirm 120V between hot1 and neutral, and hot2 and neutral. If that's not the case, carefully look over cord, plug, receptacle and breaker-box neutral bar connection.

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  • And a lost neutral that causes the drum and fan not to spin would probably indeed cause the (still working) heating element to blow some thermal fuses, since it wouldn't be able to get rid of its heat. – Nate S. Feb 3 at 21:08

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