Be clear on the things which plug into AC power and the things which don't. The things which do, must be UL-Listed, or an equivalent testing lab such as CSA or ETL. These marks are absolutely useless: RoHS, CE, CCC, FCC.
There are actually 3 separate things here.
A generic 12 volt power supply.
Any common 12 volt, constant-voltage (i.e. normal) power supply will do. You can use a hacked PC power supply. A car battery. The output of a solar charge controller. A 12V battery charger. Eight D-cells. Whatevs. Doesn't matter.
This is not a driver. A driver is a special thing designed to drive individual LED emitters or strings of -- yeah, I can see where that would be confusing. LED drivers are used with raw LED emitters (i.e. the raw parts from Cree) which need to be driven at a specific, exact current (but voltage could vary all over the map). Drivers are used for appliance LEDs like you might find in an IKEA floor lamp where there are 18 LEDs that need to be driven at exactly 350ma at some voltage between 52 and 80 volts. That is not what you have. I'll discuss later how LED strips regulate current.
You just need any bog-standard constant-voltage 12 volt supply that come in an endless number of forms. In LED strips, the power supply has no role whatsoever in dimming. (actual drivers do, but as said, you can't use a driver.)
The dimmer (or if color, the controller)
This module takes power in from the 12V power supply, and outputs PWM power for a limited number of LED strips.
An interesting fact about these is the same unit can usually work in a 24 volt circuit (24 volt PS + 24V strips).
Now, if you need to drive more than 2 amps worth of LEDs (or whatever the dimmer's rating is), you can use its output as a signal instead, and feed it to an amplifier. Most amplifiers are 3-4 channel for color LEDs, but you can just feed all 4 channels with the same signal.
The LED strips proper
Remember what I said about drivers? Your strip is cuttable every 2 inches or so. Look closely at a single segment: you will find 3 LEDs and a mystery part. The mystery part is a resistor, and its job is to be a current-limiter; it's a very simple, passive version of a driver.
If it's that easy, why do the other ones use active drivers? Because they're driving the LEDs very hard, as close to the manufacturer-spec redline as possible... which means, they must put large heat-sinks on the LEDs. These strips don't have heat-sinks, so they are driven at modest levels. This is less cost-efficient, but golly, you can hardly complain about the price.