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I designed a fitted cupboard to fit into my roof space and without any prior experience to building a cupboard with complex geometry (and not very square and level walls/floors) I've run into a major issue when trying to hang the doors.

I'm using concealed cupboard hinges such as these.

I originally planned to have the doors open out from centre on each cupboard pair but not considering the roof would impede this I'm having to open left to right.

Problem I now have is the very top corner (top right) of each door is catching on the upper frame.

I can't use butt hinges as the doors aren't recessed in to the cupboard.

I did think about squaring off the high peaks but not 100% sure if this would help and it would ruin the look I was going for...Wanted that 'false wall' look.

I could also trim the doors down, but this would leave a very noticeable line/gap around the doors.

Any help and advice greatly appreciated. Having difficulty finding the right guidance...Need to speak to an expert that understands the problem...main problem...should have paid someone to do it :D

Main structure: enter image description here

With Doors: enter image description here

Current Real WIP: enter image description here

Closed Current Tolerance: enter image description here

Where/how it is catching: enter image description here

Internal view of hinge: enter image description here

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    I don't understand what the problem is. The fact that the doors have a diagonal top does not affect the design clearance required relative to the overhanging material. Can you draw a diagram showing how the door is "clear" when shut and what it runs into when being opened? – Carl Witthoft Jan 7 at 20:27
  • What are you calling a "plinth"? I also don't see where there's a conflict. – isherwood Jan 7 at 22:20
  • I'll try and get the bottom door back on to demonstrate the issue...might be a few days though. By 'plinth' I mean the frame at the top...Couldn't think of the word to describe it at the time – Scott Jan 8 at 14:14
  • @Scott Is it the "peak" of the top corner hitting the "roof/over-head" section? I'm having a very hard time understanding what the problem is.... – Greg Nickoloff Jan 9 at 20:50
  • @greg that is exactly the problem. I'll be fitting the door back on tomorrow. See if there is any room for adjustment and try and provide some further input. But if you've come across this before I'd really appreciate how you went about resolving. Think maybe my problem is wanting to have such a small tolerance around the doors for that 'false wall' look I want. – Scott Jan 13 at 18:45
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Is the problem that the rear corner or rear face of the door collides with the face (or the front edge) of the cabinet box?

Concealed hinges are adjustable for the gap between the door and the cabinet box/face when the door is closed. People like the gap to be as narrow as possible, but some minimum amount of gap is needed so that the door can rotate about the hinge without hitting the cabinet box. Maybe you have the gap adjusted too tight. With that style of hinge one of the screws adjusts the door right and left (when closed) and the other screw allows adjustment of the gap. To me it appears the rear screw adjusts the gap.

Those look like very heavy/wide doors. By that I mean they'll apply a lot of leverage against the hinges. It might be worthwhile to again consider using two doors. Instead of putting one hinge on the left and the other on the right as originally conceived, install the hinges on the right-hand edge of both doors.

| improve this answer | |
  • The doors are only 500mm wide. The smallest will have two hinges but the rest will have 3 to distribute the weight. – Scott Jan 8 at 14:12

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