I gather you're a stone cold novice at electrical, and your only interest in it is DIY hooking up these smart switches.
The typical confusion we get with neutral wires is people seeing them connected together and thinking "they must be spares", and they think they're meant to pull out one of the neutral wires and use it for their smart device.
Not at all. Nobody runs spare wires in electrical*. You probably know electricity flows in loops. The neutral wire is the return loop. When controlling lights, it's good enough just to interrupt one side of the loop, so you interrupt the "hot" side for safety reasons. That is why plain switches don't need neutral.
(If neutral is return, what's the bare ground? Safety shield. Perfect world, current never flows on it.)
Now, your smart switch needs neutral to power itself. Switches already get "hot", and the switch needs neutral to complete the loop.
So your smart switch neutrals need to be added to the already bursting bundle of neutrals now present in the box. That's 6 neutrals under 1 wire nut - technically legal, but very challenging to assemble.
Therefore, I recommend you obtain a short length (6-12") of white wire, a pigtail. THHN solid #12 will suffice. Undo the 4-bundle, and remove one neutral (one that goes to one of your lamps), and add this THHN wire in its place. I hope I won't need to tell you to strip it similar to the other wires. There's no need to go crazy bending it to match the other wires; the wire nut will take care of that when you crank it down - and this one time, do use gorilla-tight not monkey-tight.
Then do a "pull test" - hold the nut and yank each wire in turn. If any wires come out, redo it, because the problem is bad technique. Never tape wires to keep them from falling out - that means you already have a bad connection, and that will start a fire.
Now you have this pigtail wire, the 1 wire you removed, and the 2 new wires from the smart switches. That's 4 (2 of which will be smaller) and these won't be hard to put under 1 red wire nut. The most loved brand is Ideal.
If you just can't hack wire nuts, then go with lever connectors. I recommend avoiding jab-in connectors; they create complicated problems.
If your stripper has a wire cut function, use it very sparingly - wire length is precious. I never cut to get fresh ends for wire-nutting, unless the stranded wire I use has gone full-on dreadlocks. You don't need fresh ends. The nut mostly takes care of it.
* (except now, all switch boxes must be wired with a neutral for smart switches, so where once upon a time an electrician could wire a switch box with no neutrals at all, now there must be one.)