Basically I want to build the exact door below, I really like the look of it and don't want to alter it if at all possible. I started to plan things out, but I don't do much wood work. I'm having trouble visualizing the wood sizes I would need to recreate that exact door. My door opening is 32" so I figured a 36.5" door should leave enough over hang on both sides.

Specifically the diagonal and framing pieces. I'm not sure what size piece of wood that is, or if my framing wood makes sense for the diagonal pieces as shown in the picture. I was thinking using a 2x(something) for the framing and a 1x(something) for the diagonal pieces to give the door a little depth, so it's not just a flat door.

Below is the picture of the original door and my plans so far for the pieces. Also, with my inexperience, I was planning on using screws, but also am not sure the size of screw I would use for all these pieces. (ex. #3 1 1/4 in)

Barn door Plans

1 Answer 1


If you're doing the herringbone inside you won't use 1x8. You'll run 1x6 all the way out. This design probably ends up the thickness of a two-by (1-1/2"), so your front frame probably shouldn't be two-by. I'd use the same 1x6 for everything (tongue-and-groove for the herringbone, square boards for the frame). If you don't use tongue-and-groove for the herringbone you'd need to apply a backer of something like plywood. It'll tend to crack up and be unstable otherwise.

You'll need to decide whether you want exposed fasteners (for a truly rustic look) or hidden fasteners (for a cleaner and more modern look). If the former, you probably want conventional nails. Screws would destroy the illusion. A good quality wood glue carries most of the load.

Here's one simplified plan:

  1. Build your front frame using dowel or biscuit joints, pocket screws, or whatever you have available or meets your skill set. Square the frame by measuring from opposite corners. Skew as necessary to equalize those dimensions.
  2. Flip the frame over and draw a 45 degree diagonal line as a reference. Lay some boards out and shift the line as needed to vertically center the angle joint rows.
  3. Assemble the herringbone. Use appropriate nails or screws to fasten the ends to the frame, and use wood glue on the tongue-and-groove joints. Sand edges and corners, or use a router to bullnose.
  4. Stain and seal or paint.
  • Thank you! I actually had look up a few of the terms you used. I'm more than likely going for a more modern look, so I would probably use pocket screws (as they seem the easiest). Would you suggest filling the pocket screw holes with some sort of a wood filler? As for using 1x6 for everything, would that mean using 6 1x6 boards for the back? Having a 33" door leaving ~0.5" overhang on both sides of the opening. Lastly, can I buy 1x6 tounge and groove boards off the shelf at say a Lowes or Home Depot? Thank you again.
    – Timmy
    Jan 7, 2020 at 16:05
  • They'll be buried behind other wood, so no. (You'll install them from the back side.)
    – isherwood
    Jan 7, 2020 at 16:12
  • Sorry, I edited my comment with extra questions as you answered. I had prematurely hit enter.
    – Timmy
    Jan 7, 2020 at 16:12
  • I haven't done any quantity investigation. There's a fair bit of potential waste with herringbone due to the long angles at the outside, so buy a few extra boards and take back what's left. Questions like your last one are off-topic on this site. You'll need to do your own shopping. But probably.
    – isherwood
    Jan 7, 2020 at 16:17

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