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Want to remove wall (picture with x on wall) coming through kitchen horizontally (backside facing living room with photos on it). Would leave wall in place beside it. Removing would make a 15 ft walk through opening between that wall and back wall. (Red arrows are where truss “beams” in the attic meet above the center hall walls all the way down. Yellow arrows show where basement posts below are directly under (so these are definitely bearing most of the weight.)

(Large panoramic picture very distorted, marked walls run directly parallel to each other. Center wall with photos I want to take out. If wall was taken out there would be 25 ft between living room back wall and back wall of kitchen.

(Basement photos w tile flooring. Wall directly above basement bedroom wall.)

Photo of attic. Roof is steeper than “average”. Middle supports of attic seem to run along center hall walls all the way down (these run directly under with the highest peak of the roofline perpendicular to joists all the way from one end of the house to the other definitely load bearing.)

This particular wall runs parallel with ceiling joists...however I believe (I’ll have to measure) the basement bedroom walls may run directly beneath this one (those go wall to wall across the basement so wondering if this distributes some weight to the wall below. This wall is above maybe a third of the basement bedroom interior walls below.)

  1. Does it seem to be load bearing?
  2. There would “only” be a 15 ft gap between the (possible) hallway load bearing wall and the back living room load bearing wall.
  3. Basement supporting beams run below my center hallway walls so again suspecting those are carrying the bulk of the weight. Again they run opposite the joists and they run all the wall from end to end right below the roof peak and the truss “beams” seem to meet at the point running along the center hall.
  4. We are in Virginia, tornados are concerns here. Occasionally “light” hurricanes. Main concerns are tornados. I want to make sure removing the wall doesn’t weaken the overall strength of the house.
  5. The opening between the living room and kitchen if you note, there’s no header beam across. (Does this suggest its just a partition wall?) Notice my hallway walls (definitely bearing weight can tell from the attic) these walls have headers above the walkthroughs.
  6. On the other side of the wall there are cabinets hanging which I’m hoping it was simply put in for more cabinet space in the design. (Hoping hoping, praying.....)
  7. This wall is the bane of my existence. I cannot see the living room from any angle as I cook. My kitchen feels like a little box of cabinets. Any suggestions on what it is, and cheapest alternatives to take this section out to open a space between living room and kitchen.

If my pictures look like a football playbook I apologize. I obviously can’t work a smart phone to type on a photo, not sure if I should be messing with removing walls. Engineering level work. I probably shouldn’t touch most of the diy projects that I do 😂. Just trying to not collapse the house is all. Any help is appreciated!

[3]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/uehqv.jpgenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description here

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    Do you have an attic you can get up into and take a few pictures of this area? – JACK Dec 19 '19 at 23:56
  • If its a one story home need a picture of the attic to see the trusses and also basement picture unless its a slab foundation. If its 2 story different ballgame. – user1946891 Dec 19 '19 at 23:58
  • I could try! It’s a one story with a basement. Basement walls for bedrooms run directly with this one. However the downstairs wall runs straight across wall to wall in the basement with only door openings. That’s what makes me wonder that it might be. Ceilings for both levels are 10 ft not sure if that helps. – Amanda Dec 20 '19 at 0:13
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    Although I agree with @jack , we need a bunch more information, I have rehabbed 30-40 vickys ... with that we need to fully understand the support walls - we need to have photos of these. Next you mentioned white pine flooring, to me this points to east coast but not always so a where in the world are you would be helpful. We have a bunch of old pros here but sometimes need a bit more info to help. – Ed Beal Dec 20 '19 at 1:38
  • Okay attaching pictures of the attic. Won’t pretend I have a clue what I’m looking at but looks like the supports all come to a point that runs along my center hall below? That’s the only walls that run right below. – Amanda Dec 21 '19 at 21:08
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Walls running parallel with joists are almost never load bearing. Your pictures make it seem it is running parallel. I personally, from the information you have provided, say it's safe to knock that wall out from a roof truss/joist support perspective.

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  • I would agree , the supports below Cary that wall on the left and the living area is the same span or looks to be, with the info I can see I would probably want the wall gone also. – Ed Beal Dec 22 '19 at 15:43
  • Yeah the joists run parallel and the hallway wall (if looking at the photos the far left hallway wall. That wall is where the attic you can see the trusses meet on top of. This continues through the basement, below that exact wall are the support posts in the basement. All signs that I’ve read show this ISNT a load bearing wall, but wondering if the ceiling could sag due to the distance it would open between walls. 25 ft x15 would be the finished open space between walls. Wondering if it needs a post? For support of the ceiling span. (Not load bearing but “bracing”? Thoughts? – Amanda Dec 22 '19 at 19:55
  • Basically I’m trying to find the cheapest, safest most esthetic way. Wood post, 6x6 (which is probably overkill but I’d rather....) is only 35.00. – Amanda Dec 22 '19 at 20:00
  • This wall. Is the only thing I do not like about the layout of this house. Everything else was laid out very modern and open considering it was built in 2000. Only pain, waterline for ice maker coming out of the floor on the other side. Would need either extension (there’s 25 ft extensions) so my ghetto idea.... – Amanda Dec 22 '19 at 20:03
  • Where the wall would be removed where the refrigerator water line comes up in the floor, is perfect esthetically for a post to go. If I put the post beside it, I could encase the water line to conceal it and put a plastic access panel hidden concealed between white bottom trim ( like wainscoting) and then use a longer water line, found one 25 ft. Where the wall is removed would give access to the floor....I’d run the line within the floor and bring it up through the side of the cabinet beside where I want to put the fridge. – Amanda Dec 22 '19 at 20:13

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