We are preparing to install a single stud TV mount, (Kanto PS300). However the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs.

We want to open up the wall and frame in a faux 24" vertical stud, securely suspended between the real ones, then attach the TV mount wall plate assembly To the faux stud.

So, how do we add a structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount?

We have a handyman coming over who says he can do this but are looking for tips/best practices, (proper blocking/bracing, etc.) from people who know about framing, so we can make sure the job is done right.

We have searched for how to do this but have not come up with much, but it could be that we lack the correct terminology to search for. Is there a name for what we are trying to do here?

Any help you can provide would be appreciated.


  • 12
    Why not just screw a 3/4" plywood panel spanning the studs on the outside of the wall and then mount the TV to the plywood? Or just buy a better TV mount. Opening up the wall seems very extreme. Also, if the handyman didn't suggest some better alternatives, he's not the guy you want working on the house.
    – JPhi1618
    Dec 18, 2019 at 19:19
  • @JPhi1618 Your comment came through as I was writing my "3/4" plywood" answer! Dec 18, 2019 at 19:22
  • 1
    @manassehkatz-ReinstateMonica, I'm sure there is a duplicate we could link to. I know I've seen this asked before.
    – JPhi1618
    Dec 18, 2019 at 19:23
  • 4
    Jeff, here is an example of a mount that slides to any position between two studs. It might come at a price premium, but super easy to install and cheaper than modifying the wall for sure.
    – JPhi1618
    Dec 18, 2019 at 19:26
  • 4
    Here is a similar question that talks about the plywood idea: TV wall mount problem. (Studs too far apart)
    – JPhi1618
    Dec 18, 2019 at 19:27

4 Answers 4


A bunch of ways to do this. What I would probably do myself, which is not what you are currently planning, is:

  • Cut a piece of plywood, probably 3/4" thick, 24" tall by ~ 20" (studs 16" apart) or ~ 28" (studs 24" apart).
  • Mount the plywood with 3 screws on each stud.
  • Paint the plywood to match the wall. It doesn't have to be perfect because it will be mostly hidden by the TV.
  • Mount the Kanto PS300 to the plywood.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend that for all situations, because of the need to paint the plywood. But if you are going to open up the wall to put in a stud, you are going to need to do drywall patching and then painting, so this will actually be a lot less work.

If you insist on the original plan:

  • Cut a hole in the drywall ~ 36" tall (24" stud + 4" on top and on bottom for the cross pieces) x ~ 16" or 24" (depending on distance between existing studs)
  • Screw metal brackets into the existing studs and new 2x4 pieces to span at top and bottom.
  • Screw metal brackets into the new 2x4 cross pieces and the new stud at top and bottom.
  • Patch drywall
  • Paint
  • Mount Kanto PS300
  • 3
    This plywood method is exactly what I did to center a TV within a built-in entertainment center. I didn't need a fancy full motion mount so this worked great.
    – JPhi1618
    Dec 18, 2019 at 19:29

If you insist on opening the wall, which seems rather foolish to me considering the other options available, I wouldn't install a full-height stud. I'd keep the destruction to a minimum and enjoy a better outcome as a result

  1. Open a section of wall slightly taller than the TV mount bracket and to the center of each adjacent stud.
  2. Add cross-blocks between those studs, centered on the top and bottom edges of the opening. Use 3" gold screws to toenail them in place.
  3. Add a vertical block between these two cross blocks, also toenailing it twice at each end into the horizontal blocks.

|     |                                            |     |
|     |____________________________________________|     |
|  . .|............................................|. .  |
|  .  |____________________________________________|  .  |
|  .  |                |     |  new block --^      |  .<-|-- opening in
|  .  |                |  #  |                     |  .  |   drywall
|  .  |                |  #  | <-- new stud        |  .  |
|  .  |    bracket ----|->#  |                     |  .  |

If any of that doesn't seem rigid enough, apply a heavy bead of construction adhesive to each joint as though you were caulking it. It'll be rock solid.

Even without the adhesive, this will be more rigid than a full-height stud since the load is transferred to two studs, both of which are already well anchored.

  • 1
    Good diagram and explanation. But OP was already not planning on a full-height stud "24" vertical stud" Dec 18, 2019 at 23:01
  • 3
    Sure, but at least one responder didn't catch that, so my statement partially addresses them, and my answer doesn't really change as a result.
    – isherwood
    Dec 18, 2019 at 23:32
  • Lots of screws at the local big-box are gold colored. Can you be more specific? Are you talking about structural/framing grade screws? (Having done a fair bit of framing and watching/reading, I presume you are, but someone who is hiring the work out may simply see a "gold screw" and assume the contractor is doing the right thing when he may not be.)
    – FreeMan
    Dec 20, 2019 at 13:10
  • Almost anything except black oxide (drywall) screws, which are brittle. This isn't a high-stress situation, but let's not use the least capable metal. I was deliberately vague because it just doesn't matter that much.
    – isherwood
    Dec 20, 2019 at 13:44

It interferes least with the electrical and cabling if you screw a piece of flat piece of 26 ga. sheet metal with cut outs for electrical flat to the studs, just behind the drywall. Then mount TV bracket using toggles.


There are options here; you could avoid opening the wall if you don't mind looking at some supporting structure on the exposed wall behind the TV. I am assuming you want to avoid that for the sake of the finished appearance. It very well may look nicer that way.

But if you want to use a single-stud style mount, that is going to mean opening up the wall. Note that with a single stud mount, you need to have attachment points that are spaced along a vertical line. A horizontal 2x4 block is not going to work.

For these reasons I would say adding a full height stud (vertical) is really your best bet. The mounts that attach to a single stud usually have three bolts and must attach very securely. If it's an articulating mount, the cantilever when the TV away from the wall puts a lot of pullout stress on the fasteners, especially the top one.

All you will have to do is toe-nail the stud into the top and bottom plates where you want it. It will be cheap (maybe $5?) easy, and secure. You'll want four 8d common nails, two on each side.

Toe Nailing

Toe nailing can be a little frustrating until you get the hang of it, and it can be very difficult if there's limited space. You could use screws instead of nails, but should at least use special "structural screws" or "construction screws" - not ordinary deck screws, and definitely not drywall screws. Since this isn't holding up your house, just your TV, you have some latitude. With screws, you can probably toenail the bottom in place without removing your cove molding.

Re-reading the question - it looks like you want to install a horizontal block or blocks. That works if you install two horizontal blocks with a vertical block between them. This can be done with a smaller hole in the drywall.

I really don't think there's much difference in the work involved in a big 16" x 8' drywall patch versus a small 16" x 2' drywall patch. However in this case, the small drywall patch may be less noticeable behind the TV, if the patching is less than perfect and visible.

  • 4
    Potential benefit for doing a full-height cutout and stud: many people who wall-mount TVs also want to hide power and video cables in the wall, and this approach makes that very easy to do at the same time. Dec 19, 2019 at 13:50

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