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I believe the motor capacitor with its bracket fell down and pinched two wires going to the motor. I spliced them back with two blue wire nuts. The motor works again.

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However, this made me thinking, can I leave this as permanent solution or is there disaster going to happen if wire nuts come off (there were 2 14 or 16 awg wires that were rejoined)? Should I get Wago connectors instead? Solder? Crimp? Or change the whole harness? What's the best practice?

  • I'd suggest you add a little tape to the nuts, to keep them from vibrating loose. – Hot Licks Dec 15 '19 at 15:49
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The wire nuts will be fine. I do not like push in wago connectors but love lever locks. In high vibration equipment sometimes I will lock the wire nuts with some electrical tape but if properly installed with 2 twists of the wire I have not had them come loose , I just like the idea that the tape water proofs the connection.

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  • i was thinking about the waterproof connections but then figured none of the other connections under there were waterproof.+ – JACK Dec 15 '19 at 2:09
  • I was thinking about wago 221 lever nuts as the wires I joined are stranded and not solid. – user389238 Dec 15 '19 at 2:25
  • I found lever locks a few years back. At first I only used them on light fixtures but have branched out on some projects where a 5 position lever nut is faster than a small terminal strip and so far I have not had a failure so I would agree they would be a good choice here. – Ed Beal Dec 15 '19 at 11:27
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If you connected the right wires together and followed the directions on the wire nut package then you're good to go. They are as good as the spade connectors as far as connecting wires. If a wire nuts did come off, which would be no different than a wire coming off the capacitor, and come in contact with the frame, it would trip the breaker because the machine is grounded (should be). That's why grounding is so darn important.

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  • We said similar at the same time + – Ed Beal Dec 15 '19 at 1:35
  • Good point about grounding, but this is dryer+washer combo machine that operates on 240V, not 120v. I believe for 240V plugs there is no GFCI level protection as frame is connected to neutral, right? And the 240V ground protection is not that sensitive as more current has to go through before it trips compared to a 120V GFCI? – user389238 Dec 15 '19 at 2:21
  • @HansSolo I'd have to see the name plate. Appliances that run on 240V often have 120V controls or motors. what part of the planet are you on? Yes, GFCI protection is much more responsive than tripping a breaker through a grounded neutral fault. That's why it exists. – JACK Dec 15 '19 at 11:42
  • @JACK. This is US and the washer dryer combo is fex831fs4. – user389238 Dec 15 '19 at 19:01
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Make very sure that the wire insulation in other places has not been beaten thin, beaten hard, stretched thin, or cracked - such defects could, especially in a vibration-rich environment, lead to delayed insulation failure.

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  • Yeah, there is another beaten wire that could be beaten. Would running washer and checking if the beaten area gets hot be a good test if I need to splice it too? – user389238 Dec 16 '19 at 22:55
  • No, this would be a very evil test, and it could destroy more. Best to get an assortment of good quality hookup wire (mind that you get the same wire gauge and voltage rating!!), and replace ANY suspect wire. – rackandboneman Dec 17 '19 at 1:20

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