I have a probably stupid question about assembling ventilation pipe for a cooker hood.

I want to vent my cooker hood through the eaves rather than go through the roof as I suspect it's cheaper, less effort and less visually disruptive.

This is in a relatively modern extension of a circa 190 year old traditional stone and slate property.

I could core through the bricks, but I thought that was a more difficult job with the most scope for damage.

The hood has max flowrate at 386m^3/h so a bit of research suggests I can get away with 5"/125mm (or equivalent flat channel).

It's a tight squeeze, so I was thinking of using some flat channel to exit the eaves, which look like: enter image description here

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I was looking at the Manrose catalogue and I can't work out what I need to terminate the flat channel? Can you just cut a hole, use one of the grilles and place the flat channel up against it? Not sure how it connects - if indeed it does.

I know there are 'airbricks' that look like a 'connectable' thing, but I don't have much vertical leeway - just 6cm at the outside edge.

A am thinking of using a flexible or 45 degree flat channel connector at the left hand side is what I was thinking, just not sure if it has to go through an airbrick or can just poke into the 2cm wood of the eave (at number 9 above).

Hope that makes sense - I wish I had a selection of parts to 'play' with to see how these could fit together.

I have a toolstation, wickes, b&q and screwfix handy.

Thanks for any pointers!

  • Is there a damper somewhere that is going to keep outside air from blowing back in? Don't forget about that.
    – JPhi1618
    Commented Dec 2, 2019 at 21:40
  • There is nothing yet, just a cooker hood. Thanks for the tip.
    – Kenny
    Commented Dec 3, 2019 at 21:59

1 Answer 1


Trouble is, the air is laden with moisture and will billow up around the outlet (whatever you use). This might cause staining, and even eventual rot.

Some of the roof tile vents are very neat and small these days (making assumptions here re. your tile type!) and run the pipe up to that? Best long term option.

Also, I'd try to run an insulated pipe (or surround the flat pipe with fiberglass) between the ceiling and the vent. Otherwise the hot air can condense on the sides of the cold pipe in the attic and run back.

If you must fit a plastic vent terminal, make sure it's well sealed to the eaves material to stop moisture laden air getting back into the attic (difficult if there are strip vents for the attic in the soffit or fascia board).

You could consider fitting the vent into a square of metal or plastic to protect the eaves material. I've used white perspex for this in the past.

Update In light of the better photos and your note about being willing to drill a hole. I'll amend my advice. Go for the core drill. It's always preferable to installing in the eaves or the roof for future maintenance reasons. Plus it's usually the shortest distance from the unit to the vent which is best.

Plus, a vent in a plastic pipe fitted through a solid wall is virtually maintenance free by comparison.

You're unlikely to run into a problem drilling a core hole through old brickwork. You'll need to hire a large special drill and corresponding core bit for best results. You can chain stitch a hole using a regular SDS drill bit and then chop out the core but this is likely to damage the wall and/or plasterwork internally.

Core drills form extremely neat holes. But you must have a stable platform to drill from. The drills are large and the large size of the core bit means you need to be able to hold the drill very securely as they can snatch a little, especially if you're not holding it properly.

Pick up your vent parts first, especially the plastic 'drain' pipe which will go through the wall. Core bits come in various close sizes; 100mm 115mm 127mm etc. etc.

  • 1
    Thanks. It's a slate tiled roof - I've added a picture to the post above. Is a roof vent install reversible? Aren't they expensive? It's certainly possible - I'm very wary of touching a roof as a non-expert given they are so important. It's something I've never dealt with and is so critical. Things that make me wary: * I don't know how slates are held in. * I wouldn't know how to remove slates without causing damage. * I don't know how to make sure the overall install doesn't leak. I wouldn't know what to remove in what sequence and what to lay on what to do a roof vent install.
    – Kenny
    Commented Dec 3, 2019 at 22:46
  • Oh wow, some of these are cheaper than I thought, and look much much better than what's currently installed. I am tempted to replace the existing bathroom vent with a low profile roof tile vent! Thanks!
    – Kenny
    Commented Dec 3, 2019 at 22:56
  • For sure, slate is the 'worst' to remove and if they are old, I'm not sure I'd recommend this method. I was hoping you had easy to remove concrete tiles. Maybe a close up of the eaves would help too...
    – handyman
    Commented Dec 5, 2019 at 0:02
  • 1
    I've added some more pictures. The slates are on a "modern" extension onto a 190 year old traditional property, so I'm only working on the modern bit, thankfully. I can't date it, but it can't be very old. If coring through the walls is easiest, I could be convinced! Just looking for lowest effort with least scope for things going wrong.
    – Kenny
    Commented Dec 14, 2019 at 7:18
  • Go with the core drill. I updated my answer above...
    – handyman
    Commented Dec 15, 2019 at 13:34

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