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I'm trying to find out if this is a Bosch dishwasher problem or plumbing problem before making call to right repair shop.

My dishwasher does not have heating coil.

We moved dishwasher from left of kitchen sink to right of kitchen sink. Almost mirror, but I think water line could be longer by a feet or two.

Hot water connection is still same existing connection that we used before moving the dishwasher. Kitchen faucets get hot water. Dishwasher gets lukewarm water. I have experimented this starting dishwasher, let it do cycle for few minutes so that water is filled and then opening it to check the temperature inside multiple times. Water heater kicks in, but looks like dishwasher does not get enough hot water. At least its not as hot as kitchen faucets. Flex plumbing gets warm, but not hot as copper pipe it's connected to. Don't know if it has insulation that prevents it getting hot.

We have tried running kitchen faucet so that cold water is drained. No luck. Dishwasher water temperature always feels like luke warm.

Other pointers I have noticed is dishwasher has a "sanitized" indicator that turns on only if receives water at certain temperature. It does not turn on anymore. Counter top used to get warm earlier after usage, but no more. Cleaning quality after the cycle is questionable.

No other hot water issues anywhere in the house.

Could it be because of couple of feet of extra long flex plumbing?

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I would not expect just a couple of feet to make a difference even with 3/4” plumbing. It may have been that your sanitized light was just on the edge so you never noticed it and now with a couple extra feet it is below the min temp. I would consider re plumbing with a smaller line the flow for the dishwasher is tiny even a 3/8 line would have sufficient volume for a dishwasher and the water entering the dishwasher would get hot faster and not be an issue. The other option would be to add a point of use tankless water heater some of these are quite small and will fit behind the dishwasher (I have installed them for the same reason) when replumbing would have been more expensive than the small tankless and the new circuit. Even though I am an electrician I prefer the plumbing option as it is 1 less thing to go wrong as the tankless units have a shorter life than copper plumbing. ( I know the light load of the dishwasher extends the life on the units as I installed 5 in a small tract of homes, one had an additional bar sink that one has been replaced but to my knowledge the other 4 have not been replaced).

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  • thank you for the response. We were wondering about same thing, because bathrooms which are way in back don't have any water issues. I'll investigate tankless heater. – user871199 Nov 29 '19 at 18:51
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    Try insulating as much of your hot water line add possible between the water heater & dish washer. I did this for my bathroom and raised the water temp more than 10 degrees at the tap with no other changes. Also check for a kink in the new plumbing. If the water runs too slow it could be cooling off before it gets to the dish washer. – Eric Simpson Nov 29 '19 at 23:35
  • @EricSimpson, thank you, kinks is very interesting point. I'll try to investigate all visible parts of the pipes. That might explain lot of things – user871199 Nov 30 '19 at 0:02

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