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I installed a 240v outlet for a new GE stove with its own 50 amp breaker. I ran a 50' section of 6/3 cable, 18' of it from breaker box to a vent in the foundation then I stapled the remaining to floor joist to my 240 outlet, plugged in the new stove and only the clock and stove light work. When I was troubleshooting I found 120 on both hots to neutral and very little on hot to hot same reading at the new outlet.

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  • Shoot us a photo of the breaker in question. Do the handles throw together or independntly? What is the make of the panel, and of the breaker? Do you have any other 240V appliances? Commented Nov 29, 2019 at 9:04
  • What make and model is your breaker panel? Can you post photos of it? Also, what did you use for a new breaker? Commented Nov 29, 2019 at 16:04
  • GE panel ,no other 240s , all ge breakers
    – Lonnie
    Commented Nov 29, 2019 at 21:51
  • Can you post a square-on shot of your breaker panel please? I suspect you'll need to adjust some stuff to make things fit correctly... Commented Nov 29, 2019 at 23:14

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That breaker is what we call a "double-stuff" -- it is designed to fit 2 breakers where one normally goes.

Your panel is in the GE Q Line. They do double-stuffs a little bit differently. But the same basic concept applies, you have 1" wide spaces, and each space only has access to one pole of 120V. For more on how spaces work, read my Q&A on "what is a double-stuff breaker". In particular, note what a quadplex breaker is.

GE does not do duplex/quadplex. They offer individual 1/2" wide breakers and you sandwich them together into "build your own double-stuffs". If you want a duplex 15/20, you just build it. I believe you see this setup in row 3.

Now as far as quadplex breakers, they have the 240V breaker you have right there. Similar to a quadplex, you mount that thing straddling 2 adjacent spaces, so it is grabbing a bus stab from each. That leaves 1/2 space empty above and below. You fill those with 1/2 space wide breakers: Essentially, it's a "build your own quadplex" :)

You are trying to install it on an even space, in row 1, instead of straddling 2 spaces. I would expect the breaker to be keyed so that is impossible, so I don't know how you forced it in. If you damaged or altered the breaker, throw it out and get another.

My best advice is to move the breaker in row 2 up to row 1, and pull out the 1/2" breakers in row 3 out. Split them apart, stick this new breaker in the middle of them, and put all that back into rows 2 and 3.

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  • Hi Harper so I can use the 2" breaker. Just straddle it and move others around,, I didn't force it in I saw it was to big so I stopped
    – Lonnie
    Commented Nov 30, 2019 at 19:00
  • What you have there looks 1" wide. I doubt a 2" wide breaker will fit, that panel looks pretty full. Instead, you might try what I said. I know my answer is concept-heavy, take some time researching - you'll get it. Commented Nov 30, 2019 at 19:03
  • Also I was thinking about adding a sub panel,,thinking about the future I am adding a small addition to my home that's why I put in electric range that's is definitely the only 240 I'll need, thank you very much it has made my research so much easier,,sub panel ??
    – Lonnie
    Commented Dec 1, 2019 at 18:18
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The two two are from the same phase I would guess. Do u have a double pole breaker? Make a picture from your breaker box wiring. Double check the wiring your outlet as well.

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GE's Q-Line of tandem breakers is designed so you have the option to put it on both phases or not. So you essentially have it on the single phase and need to adjust it so it is on both phases.

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  • How do you do that thank you
    – Lonnie
    Commented Nov 29, 2019 at 22:59
  • Yaa!!! I moved the breakers around and that solved all my problems,,thank you Harper for taking all that time to write and explain that process and in detail the ge breakers,panel quaudplex duplex dbl stuffs etc.thanks again for sharing the knowledge
    – Lonnie
    Commented Dec 3, 2019 at 4:24

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