I installed new GFCI. It’s the last outlet in that circuit so I connected the wires without touching the yellow sticker. After all done, I tested it and green indicator light is solid. When I plug in, no power on both outlets. What did I do wrong?

Update. I use this GFCI outlet for portable under sink water heater. I test with a radio and it works but I plug the water heater and no power. I mean no power from outlet, not only water heater. I use the non contact tester which can test power and current. I switch to radio and has power again.

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    What is this GFCI fed from? Are you removing the sticker on other outlets because you aim to protect additional downline outlets, or do you simply do thqt everytime you have additional wires? Nov 20, 2019 at 13:04
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    Ar you 100% sure the tape is covering up the correct terminals? We have seen people report GFCI receps with the tape on the LINE terminals, it should be covering up LOAD. You must use LINE only. Nov 20, 2019 at 14:24
  • Green light means no current mismatch. When current is zero, there's no mismatch. this doesn't guarantee you've got any power going to the outlet. Nov 20, 2019 at 19:06
  • Yes, I am 100% positive the tape is covering up. Test button is worked too. The GFCI is brand new from box. I fed from other outlet which is 3 ft away.
    – john chang
    Nov 21, 2019 at 13:51
  • Is this a Leviton GFCI or is it some other brand?
    – Machavity
    Nov 21, 2019 at 14:59

2 Answers 2


I have found many new models require the test and then reset buttons need to be pressed to activate the outlet and taped terminals. I would try pressing the test button then the reset sometimes these can be stiff but give that a try , if it doesn’t work provide the model # and brand.

Added after update, your radio works that helps, when you plug in the water heater the radio quits but you have power indicated with a non contact tester, this points to a loose neutral some place in the circuit.

A radio may only take a few milliamperes of current so it works, but add a large load and now nothing is working but you have a voltage but there is no return path to complete the circuit with a heavy load, check that any pigtails on the neutral all the wires are tight pull on each one (one might pull out) verify at any other junctions , other outlets for the same but it will be on the neutral because you have voltage with a load.

  • Leviton now ships theirs pre-tripped for this reason. If you miswire, it won't reset.
    – Machavity
    Nov 21, 2019 at 15:01
  • If no return path on heavy load, can GFCI’s indicator green light on?
    – john chang
    Nov 21, 2019 at 19:14
  • It’s a Leviton X7599-KW
    – john chang
    Nov 21, 2019 at 19:22
  • John watch the light it will probably go out when you have the water heater load connected, also listen, years ago I could hear the arcing when there was a bad connection, today I use an automotive stethoscope as my hearing is not that good any longer, I have seen similar issues in the past, if you have a volt meter when the water heater load is applied the voltage will dive possibly to or close to zero. If not it could be a bad outlet it’s possible.
    – Ed Beal
    Nov 21, 2019 at 19:53

My first thought is the same as Ed's; new GFCI outlets usually need to be Tested and Reset to get power on the outlets. If the wall powered radio works on both outlets on the GFCI then you have power to the outlets. How are you determining the water heater doesn't have power? Have you checked its cord and connections?

What voltage and current do you have available to the outlet? In the US, most wall outlets are 120v, 15-20A. I would think an on-demand heater would need more power to effectively heat running water, although I did find a small (Hubbell CE110, 1 gallon) storage/tank type heater that only takes 120v @ 8.3 amps.

  • My water heater is small 2-1/2 gal tank with plug in type, no need hard wire. Yes, I tested and reset. I knew water heater doesn’t have power because I use ampere tester tested along the wire and has no beep.
    – john chang
    Nov 21, 2019 at 19:11
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    An amp tester checks for current. It may not register if the heater isn't running, pulling enough current to measure. Try plugging the radio in one outlet. Verify it's working. Leave it on while you plug the heater in the other outlet. Does the radio stay on? Can you measure the voltage at the outlet before and after the heater is plugged in? If it drops more than 3-5 volts, as Ed mentioned above, that would point to a bad outlet, wiring issue, or internal fault in the heater. Nov 22, 2019 at 16:49

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