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I'm not an electrician.
Light fixture has terrible installation instructions. I bought two. I pig-tailed one. I used 14-2 Type UF for the pig-tail because I didn't have 2' of Romex at the time.
In the past I've always mounted lights to a box and grounded the box. This fixture wants you to mount their disk and there is no grounding screw.
Can you review my connections for anything blatantly wrong or dangerous?
It works fine. I just fear arcing or something similar.
I'm not going to swear to this but I'm pretty sure you need an electrical box installed and this disk attached to it. The feed wires enter the box with the correct clamps. See photo below. Then ground the box and the disk get grounded when screwed to the box but that's not needed because the fixture has its own ground wire. You don't need to tape the wire nuts
As Jack noted, you really really need a junction box here. As mounted, the wires could rub against the metal plate. A pancake might be overkill, though (and you do need a NM clamp for those). I would recommend a joist junction box instead
It's fan rated, requires no clamps, and you can attach your plate to it easily. Oh, and you don't need to ground a plastic box.
In the past I've always mounted lights to a box and grounded the box. This fixture wants you to mount their disk and there is no grounding screw.
As long as the fixture itself is grounded (which is has a ground wire in that green/yellow stripe) then the plate will also be grounded through the screws.
Yes, that job as-done is incorrect, though I could see where a novice working with poor instructions might think it is correct.
You need one of the types of boxes mentioned by Jack or Machavity.
In particular, note how you have the Romex or UF coming through the oval holes. I get where that makes sense. However actually those oval holes are variable screw-mount holes, for fixture mounting studs (just like the ones currently in use, but with a narrower range of spacing). They don't have grommets or edge protection so they would eventually chew into the cable sheath.
You must enter the boxes with proper cable clamps, assuming the box doesn't have cable clamps built-in as many do. Note that Jack's box is made for conduit piping, with standard knockouts. You can get cable clamps that fit in a knockout, but they also make metal boxes with cable clamps built-in. Plastic boxes have only cable clamps and don't even have knockouts (since metal conduit grounds through the metal box).
I hired an electrician...here is what he did:
He used a pancake box with what looks like a one way grommet/clamp that wires can't pull backwards. NOTE: I lucked out that I wanted the light exactly where the studs lie.
Romex ground to green box screw - connected to ground fixture wire - says the two screws of the fixture create the ground for the light.
He screwed fixture plate to the box.
no tape on wire nuts (his wire nuts have a small rubber extension sleeve). - He says 3 turns is to code
My wiring wasn't wrong; He says (as was pointed out in the replies) that someone in the future might pull on the wire further down the line and it prevents it from being yanked off the fixture.
Creds to everyone who replied! - it set me on a course to do it right.
