How do I get at the internals of the forward (one pointed down with grey cap) flush port of this cold water inlet valve (Propane instant hot water heater)? Screw holds on blue handle but don't know how to remove handle to possibly access some type of additional release of ballenter image description here

  • Even if you succeed in disassembling, these are not designed for repair and you won't find any parts for it... – Jimmy Fix-it Nov 4 '19 at 1:17

I agree with Jimmy Fix-it. You'll need to replace the valve entirely. It's a specialty assembly and not available to the public readily...that I've seen.

Can you just replace the seal on the grey cap and screw it back on to let it ride? IF so and everything's fine without the simply annoying drip, then take that road.

A Plumbing Supply store may be able to get you a new one. But, you need to figure out with them if you'll be sweating a new one on or going to a compression fitting, which needs to be longer if the old one's being cut off.

Alternatively. Is this part of leased equipment from the propane dealer? It may very well be a stretch. But, if so, then contact them and they will, typically, remedy the problem for free.

Of course, a Plumber might be your best bet in correcting more than this question. Is that valve assembly required or from another setup? Are those wacky reducers and not-yellow teflon tape okay? Is flex-line suddenly approved for outdoor use in a permanent installation? ...it's not, around me.


I don’t recognize that brand but the seals may be Able to be replaced by unscrewing the jam nut assembly. Most folks don’t know ball valves are easy to repair if you can get the seals from the mfg or even an identical valve, in some cases slightly tightening the jamb nut will stop leaks. unscrew the jamb nut then you have the first seal slide it out then the ball you might have to turn the ball 90 degrees to slide it off the lever, and the second seal, when I have them apart or if it is leaking at the lever, I take the handle off and push the assembly to the center. I replace the o ring and lube it with a food grade grease and re install. I set the new inner seal put the ball back in making sure it slides onto the lever, then put the second seal in and replace the jamb nut, some have torque values some down finger tight then 1/8 or so additional turn. Verify it no longer leaks. In many cases if I can’t find replacements it is easier to buy a new valve and use the the parts to rebuild in place I have done this many times.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.