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I have looked at indoor and outdoor panels. However, the design of the outdoor panel seems to be geared to excluding rain, falling from top to bottom or a little sideways. Actually, my location can't have rain, but it does have issues with condensation.

What special characteristics should I look for in such a panel?

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  • Are you stuck with loadcenter-type hardware here, or can you go to a specification panelboard? (Eaton PRL1, Square-D NQ, Siemens P1)? Also, what all needs to be served from this? Commented Nov 3, 2019 at 20:10
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    No, it's pretty bad. I have found the surface covered in dew droplets. I was afraid to operate a breaker. Commented Nov 3, 2019 at 23:09
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    I have used small fire rod heaters in the past where this was a problem, they run off of 120v and are designed for a gun safe. I don’t know if they make them small enough to fit in that small of a panel but the little warmth they generate keeps the panel from condensation issues.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 16:47
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    Write that up as an answer @EdBeal so I can upvote it... Tha won't help here, but will solve a problem at another site... I can find heaters that small, and To get a low enough wattage I can run 240V or 480V ones on 120... Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 18:15
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    @ThreePhaseEel Right, because the box is often totally unpowered. Commented Nov 6, 2019 at 6:19

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As requested: I have used small fire rod heaters in the past where condensation was a problem, they run off of 120v and are designed for a gun safe. I don’t know if they make them small enough to fit in a 40 amp panel. the little warmth they generate keeps the panel from condensation issues. I have done this in pool areas and open metal buildings. The first time I did this I asked the inspector, since then I have been asked what they were and after explaining have always been approved on inspection.

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When a panel is rated for "Outdoor Use", often called "Type 3R" or "Raintight", that does not ONLY mean it will not allow falling rain to enter, it ALSO means that no liquid will build up inside to any live electrical parts. So they must also have a "weep hole" of some sort that allows any liquid, including condensate, to drain out safely.

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  • Yeah, the issue seems to be that humid air is getting into the existing box and condensing directly onto live parts, though. Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 2:32
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    The 3r works ok but if the panel is cold and there is fog the fog condenses inside as well as outside. The only way to prevent this I have found is to warm the panel so it won’t condense moisture , started doing this on swimming pool and barn panels in the early 80’s. I did ask an inspector and he ok’ed the idea and have done it ever since where moisture could be a problem , have not failed an inspection with them in and have been asked many times what they are.
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 16:53
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    I have used a small surface mount lamp socket and a 40W refrigerator bulb as an anti-condensation heater on small panels.
    – JRaef
    Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 21:29
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    @JRaef Just wait...in a few years you'll start getting calls because someone replaced the incandescent bulb when it burned out with a 3W LED bulb that doesn't generate enough heat! For that matter, I'll bet there are people out there trying to use their old EZ-Bake ovens from 30 years ago with their grandchildren after replacing the old light bulb and wondering why they don't seem to bake as well as they used to! Commented Nov 5, 2019 at 23:02
  • Type 3R, minimum, +1 (to provide a degree of protection with respect to harmful effects on the equipment due to the ingress of water (rain, sleet, snow); that provides an additional level of protection against corrosion).
    – Mazura
    Commented Nov 6, 2019 at 2:21

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