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I'm hoping to hang two sections of IKEA's Kungsfors system on drywall in our kitchen. It'll be about twice as tall as the one in the link (two sections), but since they're independent of each other the height probably doesn't matter.

enter image description here

The uprights/suspension rails are here. Each has three mount points on it, which you can see on page 7 of the assembly instructions.

enter image description here

The problem is that I can't align any of the uprights with a stud. Even if I could it'd only work for upright, since the shelves are 23" and studs are 16" apart.

So! Will the 3/16th inch version of these snap toggles work, if I use them for all 18 mount points? (3 per rail x 2 rails per column x 3 column) Or is the drywall just gonna crumble?

It was also suggested that I run a 1/2"-3/4" board horizontally, attach that to the studs, and then attach the Kungsfors suspension rails to the board. (Like you would for hanging cabinets I guess. (Is that what I need to do? Or will the snap toggles be enough?

Thank you!

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I would say that the snap toggles are a lousy way to hang a shelving unit like that if only mounting into drywall by itself. If you had any hope of using the shelving unit any where near its load capacity the drywall only solution is a total non-starter.

I see two possible solutions to this situation:

  1. Install a horizontal strip of wood across the studs aligned with the mount point on each bracket. These are secured with screws into the studs. Other screws then secure the shelf rails to the wood strips.
  2. Apply a plywood backer against the wall behind where the shelf will be installed. The plywood is screwed to the studs using numerous screws. The shelf rails are then mounted onto the plywood using suitable wood screws.

In both cases the wood/plywood can be painted to match the wall color so they do not stand out. Of course in the case of the plywood it could be finished in a way to look like a back for the shelves if it's size matched the full width and height of the shelf unit.

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    I agree with Michael. These shelve systems are designed to hold much more than the snap toggles in drywall will support. I like his first solution. the horizontal strips could be stained to match the shelves.+ – JACK Oct 29 '19 at 13:12
  • Mmm makes sense? How thick does the wood have to be? 1/2”? Also, what if I can get the outer rails in a stud, but not the center one? I’m guessing that’s still not enough and I should do the backing board regardless? – avaleske Oct 29 '19 at 15:06
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    If you use good quality plywood that is say 5 layers then 1/2" thickness may be enough. For wood stringers I would use a minimum of 3/4" thickness. Plus 3/4" is the most common and reasonable cost alternative (in the USA at least). Finding 1/2" wood puts it onto a very expensive category. – Michael Karas Oct 29 '19 at 19:23
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Those snap toggles are pretty awesome and hold a lot of weight. Those aren't your typical hollow wall anchors. It's easy to get them to seat properly and they really spread the load over a few inches in the back for a solid attachment.

I would absolutely use those to mount small shelves in drywall. Unless you're planing on filling the shelves with cast iron pots and stoneware, I wouldn't worry about using horizontal stringers.

Another concern is the holes the toggle bolts make. If the shelves some down, that is a lot more patch work to do compared to wood screws into studs. I think that's a bigger concern than the strength of the toggles.

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  • Mmm so while the snap toggles are likely strong enough, 18 1/2” holes is a lot to patch when we move out, so some wood stringers into studs might be worth the trouble anyway? – avaleske Oct 29 '19 at 21:07
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    @avaleske, yea, that was my point. The toggles are cool, and strong and for a permanent install I wouldn't hesitate. In an apartment, I probably would not use them because of the large holes. Stringers can be screwed to studs with only a few 1/8" holes left by the screws. – JPhi1618 Oct 29 '19 at 21:09
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I know the original question was posed awhile back, but I have just installed a nearly identical system on my kitchen wall (long-term rental).

I was able to position the first vertical suspension rail so that each of the three mount points connected with the stud. But as the OP states, it’s impossible to connect with the studs on the next two rails, given the 60cm spacing. It should also be noted that there is no room for error on this system. Because the horizontal accessories are designed to slide into a hidden track along the inner suspension rail each rail must be mounted precisely 60cm apart.

I decided to use 90lb molly bolts for the remaining 6 mounts points. The track system and instructions are very clearly laid out. If followed to the letter it’s pretty straightforward. The only real concern most people are going to have is whether or not they selected the appropriate mounting hardware to handle the weight.

Fingers crossed that the combination of stud mount and molly bolts will cut it. The fact that the suspension rail design distributes some of the weight evenly across the wall also helps. At least that’s what I’m telling myself as I slowly add items to my shelving system! enter image description here

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