One of my bathrooms has a clawfoot tub with a faucet similar to this:

enter image description here

Over the past 6 months a slow drip has progressed into pretty much a steady stream.

I've taken it apart the best I can but I couldn't figure out how to fix it (unfortunately there is no shutoff so I had to reinstall it). I was expecting to find an o-ring or seal that could be replaced but I didn't find anything.

I also can't seem to find any tutorials or resources online explaining how these valves work and how to fix them.

I would just buy a brand new one, but as you can see they are ridiculously overpriced!

  • A 20c fix,,, get some or a washer kit that may have 50 rubber washers of different styles and shapes . Then look at the answers and comments below and you can fix all the washer based problems for years with a 10$ kit. – Ed Beal Oct 12 '19 at 0:30

This is likely a common "bibb" style valve, where the water comes through a valve seat. The water is stopped by a bibb washer on the end of a moving stem; the washer seals by moving up against the valve seat.

The picture below shows a common bibb-style valve (yours would not be identical but same general parts and principle):

enter image description here

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    I agree but the configuration is slightly different a pack of rubber washers from your plumbing store or big box store will provide the sizes needed , these start leaking once they are crushed down, the trick to longer life is only tighten enough to stop the flow, over tightening you will be changing them every year or more. Look close at the black close to the valve seat , that may look like an o ring because it is crushed, a small brass screw holds it in place. The new seal or washer is thicker in the middle and thinner at the edge almost volcano shaped, pull the screw after pulling the stem – Ed Beal Oct 12 '19 at 0:27
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    Sometimes a long-term leak will erode a channel in the valve seat itself or cause pitting . If a new washer doesn’t stop the leak then the valve seat will need to be honed smooth again with a valve seat honing tool. – Alaska Man Oct 12 '19 at 1:00
  • When I last took it apart, I couldn't get the stem to come out of the housing. Maybe I just wasn't trying hard enough... Should it just pull straight out once the packing nut is off? – NSjonas Oct 12 '19 at 2:27
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    You would put the lever back on, after packing nut removal, and unthread the stem (like you were opening the valve, but keep going). – Jimmy Fix-it Oct 12 '19 at 7:08
  • awesome, thanks. Gonna give it a try early next week and I'll accept your answer depending on what I find – NSjonas Oct 12 '19 at 21:48

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