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2x6 construction, exterior load bearing walls.

Recently started trying to splice long walls with the end stud landing half on first wall plate and half on second wall plate so the stud joining the two plates has 3/4" bearing on each end. I end nail the one wall with the stud then stand the second wall, tap it into the splicing stud, and toenail that one.

Now say a 16' wall plate ends roughly center of a window or door that will have a header, and cripples/jacks if it's a window. Is this kosher? How do you join the top plate if it's it a door and bottom plate if it's a window? I can't see standing the wall with half the header sticking out flopping in the breeze (it won't flop but it will only be supported by the one side of the king stud and trimmer) this seems like a bad idea.

Is there an efficient way to frame where you stop a wall plate before the window or door? I don't see a way around the other system here where you double down on your studs and nail those two studs together to splice the wall and maintain full strength but narrow up the stud cavity space.

  • When you say, “wall plate”, do you mean sole plate or one of the double top plates used in constructing a wall? – Lee Sam Oct 6 '19 at 8:45
  • Both. Bottom and top plate. For example I'll use 16 footers as much as possible in a wall, so I'll have the 16' top plate and 16' bottom plate, and then say I have a window starting at 15' from the beginning of layout, well now I have an interrupt in my layout that isn't near as friendly to splice like it would be if it we're just another stud. I'm thinking I just need to just start my first wall off short enough so a window or door will land in the next 16' piece of wall instead. – Nic Oct 6 '19 at 13:16
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The Code does not prohibit splicing top or bottom plates above or below a window.

I have seen what you describe placing the stud at a splice (say at 16’) one-half on one plate and one-half on the next plate. I understand how difficult it could be if the splice is located within a window opening and trying to place the header one-half in the first 16’ wall and one-half in the second 16’ wall.

I’d suggest either moving the window so it can be located in just one of the 16’ walls, or cut the plates so they end before the window is started.

Remember, the Code requires 1) top plates to be lapped a minimum of 4’ (and nailed with 16d at 16” on center, staggered), 2) sole plates on concrete shall have an anchor bolt within 12” of a splice, and 3) sole plates on wood framing shall have 16d at 16” on center (staggered).

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  • Move the window? Are you suggesting changing the design of the home to accommodate a framing challenge? – isherwood Mar 5 at 18:12
  • @isherwood Did you read my answer? Yes, that is one option. The other option I suggested (in the same sentence) is to adjust the plates. – Lee Sam Mar 5 at 19:14
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You mentioned the obvious solution in your question. Just build the wall in different segment lengths to avoid windows and doors.

Another option is to simply set the head er after the two wall segments are stood up.

Don't overthink it. Just do what seems convenient at the time. All the pieces end up in the same places anyway.

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