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I'm rebuilding my garage and have planned to install a footer, full brick base, and full brick wall behind a wood burning stove. I'm planning to have the "base" be mostly standard concrete block with standard all thread anchors in all the spaces to fully tie it into the original foundation(concrete slab). This area is the thickest slab visible on the exterior, roughly 18" thick. There are additional all thread tie ins where the block doesn't tie into the curve I'm desiring. The brick for the wall and then some plus the stove have sat in this location for an extended period of time with zero issues. What I CANNOT seem to nail down information wise is if a moisture barrier is required for brick adhered to an interior drywall, exterior painted wall. I've found information about excessive and inappropriate usage of barriers causing rot long term. I'm ready to set the form for the base foundation, but want to ensure longevity of construction. I'm already planning on an air gap between the brick and the drywall nearest the stove, but above that high heat zone, have the brick touching the drywall(with most likely excessive anchor ties(I have 100 drywall anchors at 50lbs each for any gap missing a stud - and plan to have 6 ties for each level of brick for the wall roughly 3'from the corner, despite the studs(overkill, I'm aware))). I attached a picture of the current state - but is a moisture barrier excessive overkill, and in danger of moisture trapping?, or is it considering all possibilities? I DO live in the south, have high humidity most of the year, and have great air conditioning/heating installed creating a dramatic difference in temperature between indoor and outdoor temperature regardless of season. This area will also be further reinforced with rebar enforced concrete piers in strategic places, including 3 at this corner. Weight is a non issue - the studs are going to be doubled as well. My real question is - moisture barrier or not? enter image description here

  • you probably want some horizontal reinforcing steel in there too, – Jasen Oct 3 '19 at 7:02
  • What is the point of tying the block work to the original floor? If you are going to fill that quarter circle with concrete, it's not like it's going to go anywhere. – Martin Bonner supports Monica Oct 3 '19 at 11:48
  • To ensure a secure bond between the two. Why rely on new work set on a flat, existing surface to hold, when I have the materials to guarantee they become one? Sure it's heavy. Sure it's not moving. But I'm for sure making it a part of the structure rather than just having it sitting on top and added in. There's nothing wrong with overdoing a job. Most future issues with any job come from underdoing or just enough. I'd rather do too much up front rather than have any issue in the future that could have been prevented and requires even more work to repair - and more money. – Jking0409 Oct 5 '19 at 6:23
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If nothing is going to be making the bricks damp a moisture barrier should not be used behind them.

If it were to be a hanging garden instead of a firewall then yes, a barrier would then be a good idea.

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