1

I want to use a framed doorway to do chinups but I'd hate to come crashing down to the floor on my tail bone. This doorway is framed but not drywalled.

I realize there are a lot of factors but not sure how to calculate this. The stamp on the 2x4 says "A. F. P. A. 134 S-P-F xxxx KD-HT 2" where xxxx is illegible. I don't know what any of that means but maybe it's useful.

I weigh about 210 lbs.

enter image description hereenter image description here

  • 1
    If you are framing with that purpose in mind, wouldn't standing the 2x4 on it's side be better? I know you would need two of them for the header, but they are way, way stronger as opposed to how you have them. – J Crosby Sep 20 '19 at 21:29
  • 1
    The stamp indicates Number 2 Spruce/Pine/Fir which was kiln dried and heat treated to kill insects. The illegible parts are probably the mill and grading association. – Matthew Gauthier Sep 20 '19 at 23:39
  • 2
    Assuming this is not a load bearing wall, what you are doing is permissible, but not best practice, ESPECIALLY given what you want to do with it later. Just to give you an idea, I did something similar, but the 2x4 was on edge and it calculated out to 375lbs max live load on a 3ft span between supports. But nobody even HAS span tables for a 2x4 on its side like that, because it's just not done. Not illegal (again, because it's not a load bearing wall), just not done. – JRaef Sep 21 '19 at 1:33
  • When I framed it I wasn't planning on using it for chinups but I do like the idea of putting two studs on edge. Would obviously be much stronger. I should also clarify those two little pieces have nothing to do with the framing but I put those there with notches in them to attach the chinup bar to. (I don't plan on finishing this room anytime soon) And no, it's not a load bearing wall. – Vincent Sep 21 '19 at 17:10
1

I expected to see a double 2x4 header while you have a single; I'd make it a double. FYI, you can look up weight it can support on beam span table/calculator. You can rely upon the jack studs to support the weight but I'd add metal brackets (e.g. Simpson Strong Tie) to add additional support (i.e. for the not strictly vertical forces) since you're jerking around and brackets are less than $1 each. Bracket the king studs to the header and two more brackets for the cross-beam. P.S. Your stamp means it's kiln-dried southern pine/fir

| improve this answer | |
  • I like your idea of the brackets. I'll try a combination of suggestions, with two studs on end plus brackets as you suggest. That should be plenty strong enough. – Vincent Sep 21 '19 at 17:16
  • Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming. And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to contribute here. – Daniel Griscom Sep 21 '19 at 21:31

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.