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My patio concrete shows multiple pieces put together in the past

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I am thinking of renting a concrete grinder 10” and make it even. Then either paint or put something on top to cover. I may fill the crack with some adhesive or concrete caulking (not sure which).

Do you think above is good idea? The cost for those will be $100 vs $5000 to redo entire slab.

  • Are you going to grind to match the level in the bottom right corner? I wouldn’t... – Solar Mike Sep 15 at 3:51
  • The cost will be much higher than 100 dollars – Kris Sep 15 at 13:19
  • Why is it $5000 for the slab? It looks like a weekend or two with a sledge hammer. Another couple days to cart it away, build forms, mix pour and smooth. Back breaking, but likely under $500 for DIY. You could put 6" gravel underneath, but concrete does not really care about that too much. – Wayfaring Stranger Sep 17 at 22:52
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Your profile says Seattle. The weathering of the wood says that you get a fair amount of water.

That slab is too high relative to your siding and probably the threshold of your door. Modern code says 4" from top of slab to top of impermeable layer.

If you are keeping the house for more than 10 years, I'd ditch the slab, set the grade to the correct height, put down landscape fabric, throw down a layer of sand, set some pavers and then lay down pressure treated sleepers and composite decking on top to match the height of your door threshold. This should improve drainage, reduce splash back, minimize wicking of water into your siding, minimize damage to your wood post, help deal with potential snow accumulation near wood.

While you are re-grading put down some conduit before the sand/pavers so you can run low voltage patio lighting later.

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A bunch of pieces of concrete will always be a bunch of pieces of concrete, any jointing compound that's weaker than the reinforcing bars in the concrete is at best temporary.

Pavers can hide a multitude of sins.

  • Caulk is kinda like flattening unlevel concrete with a 1/2" layer of more concrete. It never works in the long term. – Wayfaring Stranger Sep 18 at 2:07
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It would definitely be an improvement. Get some knee pads because you'll be down there for awhile. They have all sort of epoxy concrete fillers that do a great job on cracks,,, just need a clean, dry surface. Get a good concrete paint to finish off the job. That post in the back looks like it's in need of repair too. Good luck.

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$5,000 seems awful high. The entire slab appears to be a 1-2 cubic yard. (What are the actual dimensions?).

I think you could DIY this pour with 1 yard from your local concrete supplier for probably $200-500 ($500 if you have to go purchase the needed tools for the job. Concrete is about $100/yd in my area). This assumes the concrete truck could pour straight into your forms--i.e. no pumping or wheel-barrowing.

There is no way I personally would choose a grinder over a new pour. A pour will give better, faster results with FAR less effort.

  • I got an estimate and concrete cost is >$1K because I have to rent the parts where it runs the concrete to the area (there are several steps + fence gate). It is 3+ days of labor with 2 guys. So coming out $5K. If DIY with a another guy, grind + epoxy is a day of work. Then just paint the next day. Epoxy + Paint is used to hide the crack and uneveness... – HP. Sep 23 at 6:25

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