Installation of Liquid Propane Gas line to new Takagi Tankless Water Heater

Question

I'm installing a new Takagi Tankless water heater and wanting to make sure I have the line plumbed to the unit correctly.

I have the Main line @ 3/4" hard Pipe, 3/4" Ball valve, 3/4" Flex Line, Tee with Line going into side, then sediment Trap on Bottom, to another Ball Valve connected to the tankless.

Main Line is 3/4" the 1/2" line at the T, and the T will be removed

The Elbow will be connected to where the T was in the Above Picture. I no longer need the 1/2"

This is the Connection to the Tankless. Has the 3/4" Flex going to the T with Sediment Trap then another ball valve at the top.

I've seen many examples of where there is no 2nd Valve on the Tankless and many where there are Unions and many that have a second Shutoff valve.

Is there anything wring with this setup?

Thanks!

EDIT:

I did end up doing as FreeMan said and added the Union to the bottom of the Tankless input. There is a Valve on both sides of the flex. (-;

This is the bottom of the Tables

This is the main gas from the wall

Answer 1

Late to the party, I know...

The only issue I see with it is that there is nothing between the shut-off valve and the tank itself. It appears to me that once you shut off the valve that the only way to remove the gas line from the heater is to remove the valve itself. This will leave you with an open gas line.

I would think you'd want a short piece of pipe out of the valve, then into a union, then into the heater. That union is what you'd disassemble in order to take the gas line off the heater.

On second look, I think you've got a valve at the other end of the flex line. If that's the case, you can shut off the gas there to detach the line from the heater and that makes the valve directly below the heater redundant and unnecessary.

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Looking at the pics more closely, I just noticed that it appears that the mounting bracket holding up the heater is installed upside down. Take a look here:

That screw is through a keyhole slot. By design, the big hole should fit over the screw head so you can partially start the screw, slip the bracket over the screw, let gravity pull the bracket down so the narrow part is over the threads of the screw, then tighten down the screw.

The way this is installed, gravity will pull the bracket down so the big hole (the one the screw head will fit through) is over the screw. It is possible that, over time, gravity will work against this set up, pulling the heavy water heater down the wall until the screw heads are aligned with the big hole and the heater could come off the wall.

Now, it could be that this is installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and all is good. Also, this has been installed for at least 2 years (as of the time of writing this answer, based on the date of the OP's post) and all is good. However, I felt obligated to point out this potential source of failure, since it could lead to spilled water (an inconvenience and pain and potential source of damage), and it could lead to a broken gas line that could cause an explosion leading to significant damage and possible loss of life, not only for this residence but for neighbors, too.

Should this be changed? I would. Whether you do or not is up to you, but at least you're aware of it.

If the screw head is too big to fit through the key hole slot, then this is a non-issue.

Answer 2

The leg is supposed to be before the flexible hose. As far as the leg goes,it’s not the normal way and I really dont know. Gas usually comes from the top and turns 90 degrees with the sediment leg below.