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Cut trusses. I’m having some remodeling done and the contractor found roof trusses that were cut before I purchased the house in order to install an air handler. He is going to send it to his engineer to find out the best way to reinforce these areas. I’m afraid that he is going to come back with some outrageous cost to fix this issue. Is there a budget friendly way to accomplish this, just so I might have a little information in my back pocket as a suggestion? Any help would be appreciated.

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/xary4.jpg)enter image description here

  • Just remember that having it fixed now is most likely cheaper than the roof collapsing and getting it fixed then... – Solar Mike Sep 8 at 14:28
  • For more help here I think that several additional bits of information would be need. Number of rafters cut? Rafter spacing? Is cut in upper chord of rafter truss or a web piece? Size of material that was cut? Measurement of the cut depth and height? Are these real trusses or stick built rafters? Photo of cut area showing whole rafter member width? Picture of overall rafter structure from a distance? – Michael Karas Sep 8 at 16:34
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Steel is often used for beams when wood isn't strong enough for the allowed vertical dimension. You might be able to reinforce it with a structural angle. My gut feel is that this would be strong enough. Assuming that it extends 2 ft past the problem area on both sides and is bolted to the 2x6(?) with 5/16 bolts, washers, and nuts, at least 2 on each side of the problem area. Put the A dimension against the 2x6 and the B dimension away from the roof so roofing nails are less likely to hit it.

This stuff isn't that expensive, but it is heavy, so you want to buy it locally if possible.

I am not qualified to make a final decision on this, you need an engineer who knows your local codes.

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I’d take a sketch of the truss to your local lumberyard who makes trusses and ask them to run a load test given: 1) typical snow load for your area, 2) span of trusses, and 3) spacing of the trusses.

The truss manufacturers have software that can calculate that stress in each member of the truss. You can then match it to what your contractor says.

One reason you have not had trouble so far is that the member is in compression and the “load” is partially being transferred to the roof sheathing. This cannot/should not continue or the sheathing could buckle.

Edit: Actually, after closer review, I doubt that cut is in the top chord of a truss. The adjacent member looks like a 2x10 or 2x12 joist.

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