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I was putting up spice racks in the kitchen and I seem to be off by a half cm on one side with the screws. As a result, they're just a touch too close together and I cant get the screws to line up with the keyhole slots on the back of the rack.

Right now, I'm evaluating my options and it looks like I'll have to remount it up or down a bit... ideally as close to the original holes as possible or else the height becomes an issue. In an ideal world, I'd be able to patch the hole and redrill it a half cm over so that the racks can be mounted at the height I had originally wanted. I've never patched drywall before so I don't know how sturdy it would be if I did that. The rack itself is small. Won't be more than maybe 2 or 3 pounds fully loaded (including the weight of the rackJ)

This is the keyhole slot style I'm working with. What I have is metal, so I can't easily cut it wider to compensate for the hole.

keyhole slot

self-drilling anchor

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    Good question, I think you understand once the Sheetrock is cut through there is not much strength and even a light load may not hold on the edge of the patch. I have put them in almost touching then removed and patched the unused one. But believe @jack answer is the best advice. – Ed Beal Sep 4 at 13:57
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I love those anchors and use them all the time. Don't bother trying to patch the hole and re drilling it, the patch won't hold. Leave the old anchors in the wall and install a new one an inch or so to the right or left of the old one. Then measure the distance between the keyholes, center to center, and measure that distance from the center of your new anchor to where the next one has to go. Drill a small hole at that point, don't use the "drill point" on the anchor as they can shift when screwing them in. Screw in the new anchor and you should be good to go. You can now go back and remove the old anchors and patch the wall or just leave them there. Good luck.

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    I love em also use both the plastic and metal, easy to remove and patch compared to molly bolts, I agree a small move is no go. Ether adjust position or open up the key way slots a little so they fit. If you don’t mind moving up, down left or right an inch that is what I would do+ – Ed Beal Sep 4 at 13:52
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Those anchors you have there will not allow you to move over the least little bit.

I personally do not care for those type at all, I had them fail before and a pool stick rack went straight to the floor. I didn't like that.... I prefer plastic wall anchors that lock into the back of the wall, and they are soft enough you can set the screw right into the plastic if the hole is off a little.

enter image description here

The brand there is called Toggler(C) or maybe its (R), the kind I try to find when I can. There are others out there that do the same thing too. This brand is simply the first one I tried years ago and have always worked.

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I use the plastic versions of those all the time when installing gear in walls for the offices I setup.

They make a pretty small version of that same one, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQBVV4J #6 X 1-¼” screws.

I usually leave the one that is in the wrong place in the wall, to keep the integrity of the sheetrock, and put another one next to it. Its not a favoite thing to do, but some of the Speaker mounts, First aid kits and flashlights will some times hit a metal stud, or cement or something I cannot penetrate and I end up moving it over a tad to get a new hole.

If you can use a Toggle Bolt like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IBBUE/ You might have enough length to create a bridge over the old hole, though you would need to have a Tight Connection to the spice cabinet and the wall its in to keep it from moving.

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    If I hit something I back it out and just use the screw in the wood stud or metal stud. – Ed Beal Sep 4 at 13:48
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    @EdBeal That's fine if you hit a bare wood stud. Not if you hit a metal nail plate! – manassehkatz-Reinstate Monica Sep 4 at 13:57
  • Good point I don’t think a simple screw would punch a nail plate but when working with metal studs the wires go through the pre punched holes or that’s what I have done so I use self tappers when I hit a metal stud, may be risky but I have never hit a wire doing this. But again point taken + – Ed Beal Sep 4 at 14:02

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