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Below are all the pictures that correspond to my question.

Last night I installed some stair nose molding and tried to follow the instructions the best I could (the part of the instructions in question is below). Now, I do not own a countersink bit, but did my best to do so with what I had.

The board fits perfect, it is ready to go except the screwheads are a little unsightly. I am concerned that the "filler" that the instructions suggest I used can't be blended properly. Has anyone come across this?

As I see it I have two options:

1) Buy a countersink bit to clean up the holes and tidy things up, the fill as instructed.

2) Replace this board and fasten a way that you guys suggest?

Any advice would be great on either option.

I apologize I only was able to post one of the pics of the screws used in installation I am posting this from the office and the other pictures is just a blurry, poorly lit mess. But both are roughly the same.

Thanks for your insights.

Product Used Portion of Instructions in Question Drawing included with Instructions Example of a Screwhead

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You should get yourself the counter sink drill bit for the screws. They are not expensive and will create a much nicer appearance as they can let you drill down into the molding so that the screw head is fully below the surface and much easier to conceal with the matching trim putty.

Another thing to consider is that when installing with the trim piece with construction adhesive this is the primary thing holding the trim in place. The main job of the screws is to hold the trim in place until the construction adhesive dries. For this reason it is not necessary to use screws with huge diameter heads. A smaller screw like a #6 or #8 that is the length specified by the trim manufacturer should be more than adequate.

If this were my application and only installing such molding at the head of the stairs I would consider using only construction adhesive and placing heavy weights on the molding for 24-36 hours. If you use something like concrete blocks for the weights protect the surface of the trim and floor using some rosin paper.

Another thing I notice from your picture is that it appears that you are installing this molding before you have dealt with baseboard moldings at the wall. This is the incorrect order to do this. Instead install the baseboard first and the fit the molding full length up to the baseboard. There is no real need for an expansion gap for the molding itself because it is relatively short.

  • Thanks for all the insights...and now I have a couple of clarification seeking questions. If it's the adhesive that does most of the work, could I not just use a few brad nails instead of screws? And, in regards to your last paragraph, the instructions (portion not pictured) suggested that I leave an expansion gap...so I did. In your experience you find it not necessary? Even though that this piece is ~35" long (I don't remember the exact number). – J Crosby Aug 6 '19 at 14:50
  • You could use brad nails to secure while an adhesive dries, assuming they will hold the board flat in place. If not sitting well in the spot, you may need to do some fitting first with a chisel or hand plane. Be sure to use long enough brads, say the thickness of the board you’re attaching + 3/4”. It might be good to pre-drill first with a drillbit smaller in diameter than the brads. Use a punch or small nailset to knock brads below finished surface and finish putty or colored wax (sold for the purpose) to hide the brad holes. – Old Uncle Ho Aug 6 '19 at 19:00
  • @JCrosby - I have installed a number of flooring projects and have never had expansion issues with the trim molding including a 63" long nose molding installed at the step down from a dining room into a living room. Several installations have been click together floating flooring product that needed trim molding in doorways or along a bathtub. In all cases these moldings were installed as a final step to fit between the base trim or door jambs after any other trim that covers the flooring gap has been installed. Also most of these were installed with construction adhesive and (continued) – Michael Karas Aug 7 '19 at 5:49
  • weighted down till dried/set. In the case of the long nose molding piece it was nailed in place using finish nails that were then set below the wood surface using a nailset tool. – Michael Karas Aug 7 '19 at 5:52

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