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I build a fence a few months ago in the winter and over time I have observed the post that holds my fence gate (5.5ft) started to twist. At the same time, the door when I installed it, it was straight, whereas now it has been settling. In fact, I have already cut some of the bottom pickets but it still is acting up.

Now I am not sure if I should cut the pickets anymore fearing that it may settle even more. I used for my gate this kit (https://www.lowes.com/pd/homax-easygate-15-7-10-in-steel-painted-gate-hardware-kit/1000194567?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--hdw--google--lia--145--gatehardware--1000194567-_-0&kpid&store_code=1631&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WRg72rTfg_y4xwj0HBrKFdjMqxdUz9VZHcobUtaoX6n1tTTJI_CWCgaAlItEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) so in theory I should not be seeing any sagging and honestly the frame looks square.

Has anyone had similar experience with this and how I can remedy the situation without needing to pull the post out and place a new one (since the issue may happen again if I am missing something). I don't mind the sagging too much as long as it is structurally okay but I mind if I see the door sagging even more.

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    Do you own a spirit-level? Check to see which part of the gate is no longer level or plumb. Then get rid of that gimmick "no-sag" gate kit and put in a diagonal brace. – brhans Aug 4 at 21:21
  • Are you sure it is the post and not the hinge? Q2: How does the post interface with the ground? Is it just in the earth or it is in concrete? – Willk Aug 4 at 21:22
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    The metal corners can be left in place, but a diagonal brace might help. Jack or pry the door to square and then put on a diagonal brace from the top hinge side to the lower opposite side. This will stop deformation of the door, but will not do anything for the post getting out of plumb. – Jim Stewart Aug 4 at 21:23
  • The post is in concrete. So judging by the picture you believe that the door is deformed? I like the idea of the brace. So should I place a brace like so: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/41191/… – Michael Aug 4 at 22:08
  • yes ... you could also use a steel cable and a turnbucle instead of the wood ... run it in the opposite angle to the wood – jsotola Aug 4 at 22:40
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I am not sure what the cause of your post twisting is, although it doesn't look twisted in the picture. If you didn't cement the post in using postcrete or other quick drying cement, the soil packed around it can settle allowing the post to twist.

As for the gate sagging, it seems from the photo that you have not adequately braced the gate, so it will continue to sag more in time. It may look square at first glance but to me there is a slight crookedness (look at the distances between the top left of the gate to the top frame, and the top right of the gate to the top frame).

Adding diagonal bracing will prevent the weight of the gate pulling down on the horizontal bracing at the part furthest from the hinges. I would take the gate down, re-square it if aesthetically it would look better, and add diagonal bracing. Brace the top edge furthest from the hinges to the bottom of the hinged side using wood. (In the photo of the bracing you have here, brace from top left to bottom right).

Downward forces furthest from the hinges will then be transferred to the bottom of the hinged part of the gate.

You could use wire but if you do, it won't be as strong on the bracing and the diagonal would need to be in the opposite direction.

The only thing is you said you trimmed the picket bottoms so if you re-square the gate it could look slightly crooked at the bottom, but that is much less noticeable and the gate won't sag any further.

Edit after further thought

Thinking about the size of the gate, which by the photos I would guess is a 1.8m (6ft) high gate, using wire for diagonal bracing may not be adequate and considering the weight of the downward forces which will be there, using wire would put a huge amount of strain on the top hinge which isn't that big looking at the photo.

I would use wood bracing in the manner described above. It will not be as strenuous on the bottom hinge, and it will also lower the strain on the top hinge.

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The gate requires a diagonal "Z-brace" covering all the pickets.

Remove the gate door and place it on a flat surface. Using the same.type of material you used for the fence rails (horizontal members), mark and cut a diagonal brace long enough to cover all the pickets.

Apply an outdoor adhesive (Titebond III, or a urethane construction adhesive) between the brace and each picket.

Use a narrow crown stapler, or small nails to secure the brace to each picket. The fasteners provide clamping while the glue dries. They are not for structural purposes, so two fasteners per picket are sufficient.

Before rehanging the gate, verify the opening is square. Measure across both diagonals of the opening. Both measurements must be equal. If not. Correct the opening to be square. (Ask a separate question if you need help with this.)

If, after rehanging the gate, the post with the gate attached sags, support that post with a diagonal brace. Ask a separate question if you need help with this, too.

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