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Old plug worked and light work. no breaker blown.

Installed new GFI and nothing works.

Isolated hot line, reset GFI and used only hot line in and GFI blows.

Connected wires together to bypass outlet, and light works fine.

  • 1
    Can you post a photo of the wiring inside the box? – ThreePhaseEel Aug 4 '19 at 17:42
  • no my email and iphone is being remotely serviced by someone in Egypt – mike Aug 4 '19 at 17:58
  • its one line with a plug spliced into it... – mike Aug 4 '19 at 17:58
  • 2
    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. We're going to need more info (e.g. that picture) before we have any chance of helping you. And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here. – Daniel Griscom Aug 4 '19 at 18:00
  • photo added as requested – mike Aug 4 '19 at 18:12

See how the power comes in via Cables? Each cable has 1 black wire, 1 white wire and probably a ground wire?

One of those cables is supply. The other one is onward power to your light or whatever.

I see no reason a light needs to be under GFCI protection. The LOAD terminals are not for using, unless you know exactly what you are doing and intend to GFCI-protect the onward loads. Protecting hardwired lights is silly, that's ground's job.

Place both blacks on GFCI "LINE" brass screw.

Place both whites on GFCI "LINE" silver screw.

Most GFCIs allow 2 wires in back-wires directly under the screw; if not, then pigtail the 2 black wires and 2 white wires. Crank the screws down quite hard.

Now, check other receptacle sockets that lost power during this situation. If they are in a place where GFCI is required, do a GFCI test on those. If it trips a GFCI (maybe this one), mark the socket "GFCI Protected". They make stickers for that purpose. Otherwise make sure to fit another GFCI there, or revisit the "know what you're doing/intend to protect onward loads" thing.

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  • Absolutely agree on not protecting lights with gfci. However, OP either 1. miswired it or 2. Detected a ground fault in his light, in his original attempt. I'm not sure it's wise to disregard the second possibility and leave them with a known current leak. Although, yeah, it's probably option 1. – Jeffrey Aug 5 '19 at 15:04

The ground fault circuit interruptor (GFCI) is an interruptor switch. When the GFCI device detects current flowing through the bare copper or green grounded conductor, it opens, turning off power to loads plugged into the face receptacles and anything connected to the load terminals located behind the device.

Your box contains two sets of wires. One set comes from your branch circuit (the circuit breaker or fuse panel). The other set goes first to your light switch, and then on to your light.

The branch circuit wires must be connected to the GFCI terminals marked LINE. The black wire goes to the black screw. The white wire goes to the brass or silver screw.

The other set of wires must be connected to the GFCI terminals marked LOAD. Again, black to black, white to brass or silver.

The grounding conductors are bare or green. They must be wire nutted together with a third short length of bare wire (a pigtail). Connect the pigtail to the green screw of the GFCI. Do not attach more than one conductor to a green (grounded) screw terminal.

Re-energize the circuit. Press the TEST button on the GFCI and observe the loads disconnect (the face receptacles and all downstream device's stop operating). Reset the device.

You've just completed a code-compliant repair.

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  • thank you had it backwards – mike Aug 5 '19 at 12:39
  • Fantastic! That's the easiest mistake to make with GFCIs. Mind upvoting my answer? – ndemarco Aug 5 '19 at 22:12
  • I did. ok now comment is longer than 10 characters. – DDS Aug 7 '19 at 14:06

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