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I live in a trailer and am debating attempting to put a hose outside/on the side.

A few considerations:

  • I have no plumbing experience
  • It gets -40 where I live in the Winter

I have read great things about PEX & "Push Connectors" which made me think I can tackle the project, but my main concern is the spigot near ground.

I plan on shutting off the water each winter just FYI.

Question:

  • Is it safe to put the drain-cock spigot connector near ground? I'm talking within 6"
  • I was concerned with "akwardness" as well and wondered about installing the spigot upside down so the connector is facing upwards. Does anybody see any issues with that?

Drain Cock w/ Spigot

Similar DIY Post:

options-for-replacing-an-at-grade-hose-bibb

Here is my shopping list so far if you see any issues:

The only thing left is for me to look at the setup downstairs and figure out how I can "T" off of it.

[Update]

This is in a mobile home park.

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    I would plan an internal isolation valve so that in winter you can drain the external spigot completely... – Solar Mike Jul 15 at 9:26
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    There are Sharkbite T fittings to add a feed for your spigot from an existing water line. At most, I might turn the spigot 60 degrees to one side or the other from emptying downward, but I woudn't point it upward. It will need to drain come winter. You actually don't need a ball valve with a drain. Just close it off to ball valve to your spigot, open the spigot and allow that line to drain. Once that's done, close the spigot and you're good to go for the winter. Empty PEX can't bring enough cold back to the line that feeds it to freeze anything. – NothingToSeeHere Jul 15 at 11:16
  • Where is the water piping in your trailer? Is it under the floor and covered by insulation? Rather than come up with a clean sheet creative solution to installing an outside faucet in a cold climate, find out how others do it. I changed the valves on our two outside faucets (warm climate) from the standard stem valves to quality Italian made 3/4" ball valves (Home Depot "garden valves"). This was a mistake; under pressure the ball valves are very hard to turn. They have a small circular handle with a small projecting tab. I had to devise a wrench to turn them. Also hard to adjust for low flow. – Jim Stewart Jul 15 at 11:31
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    In general, ball valves are designed for full off/full on operation. They are not designed for metering, i.e., not designed for setting flow to intermediate values. – Jim Stewart Jul 15 at 11:35
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    Having the downward facing spigots and a ball valve on the inside allows the feed to the spigot to drain, so you can get by without a drain on the ball valve. You might find a drain valve on the sillcock, but you won't really need it if you can drain the whole line. – NothingToSeeHere Jul 15 at 19:39
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Thought I'd share what I ended up doing. I tore out all the copper pipe "main line" and replaced with plastic pipe. I added a "T" and then installed an 18" frost free silcock basically at grade. I added heat-tape and insulation on the inside, now I'm just debating on if I need to cover the valve in the winter (perhaps with a simple box?). I don't usually do what I did above (post multiple questions), so I created a new thread with that simple question --> Frost Free Silcock - At Grade - Problem in Winter?. I'm also debating on not shutting off the water on the inside (I did install a Ball Valve with a drain right by the "T"), but worry about heat tape on an empty pipe. Thinking about it, I doubt that would be an issue as CPVC is rated like 200F, but the point of posting the question was to get feedback :).

In regards to the "awkard angle". I will be digging out a bit under the bib to allow for the hose attachment and having it at the "proper" angle.

Thanks for all the tips!

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