I suggest you back out now, before the problem gets worse. Most hardwood floors will tolerate quick spill cleanups. That yours didn't implies some combination of badly made flooring or improper installation.
You can try refinishing that chunk, but if the veneer is wrinkling, it's not going to work.
When using laminates in a wet area, one recommendation is to glue the individual planks together. This is fussy, as you need enough glue to squeeze out, but not enough to glue the plank to subfloor/underlay, nor to make a mess cleaning the top. But it does make your floor more water resistant. This reduces both the edge exposure of the plank, and the amount of water than penetrates into the subfloor.
Wood based flooring (hardwood, engineered plank, laminate) is getting better about water. Despite Manufacturers Claims of their use in bath, laundry, kitchen, I'm not yet sold.
Vinyl sheet flooring is close to waterproof. Good stuff lasts for decades. Cutting and laying it is an art form. Because it has few seams, the subfloor is protected too.
Vinyl tile is an option, but while it wears well, it, um... lacks artistic appeal.
Ceramic tile is the ultimate floor for wet rooms, and if you have good knees is well within the capability of a DIYer. You'll just take 6 times as long as a pro. I've now done a shower, a laundry room, a slate wood stove surround, and a kitchen back splash. Youtube is your friend. Some water will penetrate the grout, the mortar and into the subfloor. This is where membrane systems like Ditra are a win -- one more barrier keeping the subfloor dry. A sealer on the grout helps a lot. A sealer on the subfloor helps a lot. Having the subfloor vented on the bottom side will help some.
One thing to remember about 'waterproof flooring' While the floor may be waterproof, it does not form a waterproof membrane. (Sheet vinyl comes close) You cannot put a 'waterproof floor over porridge board (sawdust/small chip board) and expect the subfloor to remain intact.