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Just replaced a leaky cold-water faucet cartridge and it still leaks. It's "better" but far from solved.

The rubber on the old 2k-2c cartridge seemed to be pretty deteriorated (practically no longer existed) and lots of bits of rubber came out. Is there another washer or seat that is supposed to be there before putting the cartridge in? Is the cartridge supposed to be rotated prior to placing the brass ring over it?

I'm not sure what, if anything, needed to be in place before putting the cartridge in.

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  • Did you get all the bits of rubber out? A picture may help, if it's already together a picture of the old cartridge may help.
    – Platinum Goose
    Commented Jul 11, 2019 at 13:46
  • Thanks - probably should have used a tooth-brush or dental pick, but did the best I could with a screw driver and my fingers. After replacing the seat the issue was solved. - Thanks!
    – ChronoFish
    Commented Jul 11, 2019 at 23:48

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I have a number of faucets of a similar style and you will want to check and replace the seat. In the image below, the seat is the little threaded part at the bottom. It's placed behind the cartridge (contrary to how it's shown in the image)

enter image description here

You'll need a seat wrench to get it out:

seat wrench

Likely you will find that there are notches in it. Get a replacement and screw it back in firmly. Do not use pipe dope or Teflon tape (thanks @JimStewart.) It should go in easily if it's in the right position. You don't want to cross threads here.

They should have seats where you bought the cartridge. Take the old seat in to make sure you get the right one. I'd buy a handful. You will probably be doing this again before long.

One problem I have run into with replacement cartridges is that they use a rubber gasket instead of the felt ones in the original cartridges. After the cartridge is tightened, this gasket is compressed against the shaft and as the faucet is opened and closed, the gasket turned with it and caused the assembly to come loose. This might not be an issue with this design but to solve that problem, I used a little plumbing grease on the shaft to allow it to turn without moving the gasket.

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    You should not need any thread sealant on the threads of a metal valve seat. The threads are what clamps the seat down, but the seal is made by the flat shoulder contacting the flat in the valve body. Thread sealant will have no benefit and may, and often does, actually prevent sealing. Teflon tape will likely interfere with the metal to metal contact which makes the seal, and probably pipe dope can also do so in certain circumstances. Do not use either one on valve seats.
    – Jim Stewart
    Commented Jul 11, 2019 at 21:46
  • this was exactly it! I thought the seat was a handle adapter lol, especially as it pictured in the image. I read your post while at Lowes, bought the seat wrench, got home, and 5 minutes later it was done. Thanks!
    – ChronoFish
    Commented Jul 11, 2019 at 23:46
  • Thanks @JimStewart - you were right -there was no need for any additional putty or sealant.
    – ChronoFish
    Commented Jul 11, 2019 at 23:47
  • @JimStewart Thanks for the correction. I will update.
    – JimmyJames
    Commented Jul 12, 2019 at 13:29

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