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This is a personal DIY project where I would like to take down completely some interior walls. I've done measurements all around, attic, crawlspace inside/outside, and openings as well.

The house is a rambler style 1956 build, gable roof, one story level simple as is.

Edit/Update: The roof has rafters.

The walls I like to remove are red colored on the 3D model, and marked on the drawing.

The model displays rafters, ceiling joists, posts/pier concrete positions, everything possible probably to know and judge if the walls are bearing or not.

All dimensions are ± 1.5 inches error and can be seen on the below image and also you can visualize the house as a 3D model on your browser to the following link:

http://www.valentinoprea.com/remodeling/

enter image description here

What do you think?

  • I would like to know if rafters or trusses it looks possible but would need to know if there is support from the center bottom wall. – Ed Beal Jun 24 at 22:50
  • house is build with rafters. Did you see the model? Is something missing? – cadobe Jun 24 at 22:51
  • Sorry I did not see the 3D , using my phone, it looks like you may need a strong back based on what is there that I can see or it looks like that’s how they did the span, That span is getting quite large but similar to the strong back in the Bedroom. Since the roof supports are tied to the rafters that actually provide some support. Remover this is just internet opinion we have not looked at the property or the structure, but your plan looks similar to the other areas to me as in non load bearing and tied with the roof support. – Ed Beal Jun 24 at 23:34
  • Please when you have a chance take a look from a desktop, honestly I cannot follow you. The mobile should work though. – cadobe Jun 25 at 0:37
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Looking at the 3D model, the wall to the right of the front entrance door is a load bearing wall. It carries the weight from the roof through the wall and then the weight is distributed to the pillars on both sides of the wall. The back inner wall though can safely be removed.

If you choose to remove the load bearing wall, it might not collapse right away (crossing fingers). But in addition to the weight (load) of the roof structure on the wall, there is also the wind load (and that could be catastrophic). Most people don't appreciate the high load wind places on a structure.

Don't remove a load bearing wall without installing a way to transfer the load onto temporary supports. Contact a Structural Engineer if necessary.

  • great answer. Up vote. Now, that being said is it possible to put a 2x8 header for a 8 foot opening in that wall? – cadobe Jun 26 at 4:09
  • a 4 by 8? Ignore the 2x8 – cadobe Jun 26 at 4:31
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    Disclaimer ( I am not a structural engineer) : – user1946891 Jun 26 at 21:31
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    I would do the following: -> Laminated 2x8 with 1/4 plywood sandwiched between the (2) 2x8's this can be either placed flush with the ceiling or lower to create a door (this will be your header). Then double 2 x4 on each end to carry the load to the floor (normally a jack stud and king stud) . One 2x4 to go under the 2x8's and the other runs up to the attic on the side of the 2x8's. Under the floor in the crawl space run joist directly under the wall uprights at 90 degrees to the joists running parallel to the opening above to carry load to piers (overkill but worth it). – user1946891 Jun 26 at 21:46
  • "Under the floor in the crawl space run joist directly under the wall uprights at 90 degrees to the joists running parallel to the opening above to carry load to piers".............I don't understand that. What do you mean? In the crawlspace I have girders/beams running perpendicular to the red wall and in the attic I have ceiling joists running parallel to the red wall. You mean to run an additional girder/beam right below the red wall between the actual girders but perpendicular to those meaning that the new girder will be right underneath the red wall? – cadobe Jun 27 at 13:52

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