Due to low water pressure and lots of water interruptions from our water supplier, we asked a 3rd party to install a water system. This is how the water system looks like based on my observation. enter image description here


After using this system for a few weeks, I noticed the following problems:

  • Low water pressure on the 2nd floor when pump is not plugged in. The reason is that there's not much difference between the storage tank outlet and the pipe responsible for delivering water in the 2nd floor.
  • When the water pressure from the supply is high, and the pump is not plugged in, the water flows okay (using the green line). The pressure is not high though, but enough to deliver water to the 2nd floor. The problem is the water from the supply can't fill the pressure tank (via blue line). I have no idea how water pump works, but should water flow through it when it's not running?
  • When both the storage tank is full and the pressure tank is also full (meaning it has reached the upper limit in the gauge), the pressure switch works well and turns off the pump. However, a slight drop in of pressure (say I just simply open a tap for a few seconds) in the pressure tank (the gauge reading drops down), the pump starts running again.


The following are the ideas that I thought would solve the problems above. I'm no expert when it comes to water system so I'm looking for your inputs and suggestions. The following are the ideas that I thought would solve the problems above. I'm no expert when it comes to water system so I'm looking for your inputs and suggestions.

  • To solve problem 1, I'm thinking of inserting a small pressure tank (6 gal) between the storage tank outlet and the pipe responsible for delivering water in the 2nd floor (see broken-line orange box).

  • To avoid the pump running when the pressure from the supply is high, I'm thinking of putting another pipe that will connect the water supply to the pressure tank directly (see orange pipe).

  • I have no idea how to solve this one. enter image description here

This system was installed 3 weeks ago so I'm assuming there's nothing that's been broken already since the day it's installed.

  • 2
    Possible duplicate of How to Increase Pressure from Water Tank? Jun 5 '19 at 9:29
  • Yeah. Sort of duplicate but I didn't edit the original post. I'll just delete the old one. This one is better since it has images.
    – Zane
    Jun 5 '19 at 14:34
  • Not sure why the - or down vote so I reversed it looks like a good question to me.
    – Ed Beal
    Jun 5 '19 at 15:35
  • 2
    I’m voting to close this question because it's been abandoned.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 3 at 13:15
  • I’m voting to close this question because it's been abandoned Aug 31 at 16:29

Zane; I gave a suggestion in your duplicate ask, however the picture is now worth a thousand words , "as the saying goes". I can't see how having that large tank mounted somewhere in the house will be of any value since you can not elevate it high enough to produce any decent pressure. For each foot of height of the water level above the point of use you will get .433 pounds of delivery pressure. so, to get even 20 pounds water pressure to take a shower, the top of the water level would have to be about 46.5 feet above the shower head. (1 LB = 2.33 feet or 20 LB = 46.5 feet). If your picture is how the system was installed there are a few things you could do: 1)"Fire" that plumber and hire one that knows how to plumb a booster system. 2)Replace the red pressure tank with a very large bladder tank. and get rid of that large tank that is somewhere in the house. 3) Make the big tank just a storage tank with a double swing check mounted on the top of the tank. (A good plumber will know how to do this) and move it to between the house water supply piping and the booster pump. 3) convert that large tank to a bladder tank similar to the red tank or just use suggestion 2, and get rid of that tank. My 2 cents

  • Thanks for your inputs. 1. Yeah, I will look for another plumber. 2. We can't get rid of the large storage tank since we're using it as supply when there are water interruptions (no water supply from our supplier, and this happens a lot) Noob question tough. What's the difference between a bladder tank and the pressure tank I've shown in the pic?
    – Zane
    Jun 5 '19 at 14:41
  • There probably is no difference, just my terminology. Also, if you need the storage tank, just move it and pipe it between the house supply and the booster pump.. That storage tank could be vented putting 1 or 2 swing check valves mounted at the top of the tank. Then when the supplier is not supplying enough water you would draw from the storage tank.
    – d.george
    Jun 5 '19 at 15:17
  • Moving the storage tank from 2nd floor to the 1st would be hassle though. Also, if I move it in the 1st floor and set it up like this, I'm not sure if the low water pressure from our supply could deliver the it to the inlet of the storage tank: water source from supplier > water tank (1st floor) > jet pump > pressure tank I'm thinking of this setup: water supply > jet jump (1st floor) > storage tank (2nd floor) > pressure tank (let the gravity fills it) I'm not sure if our jet pump (0.5 HP) has enough power to deliver water from the supply to the storage tank in the 2nd floor.
    – Zane
    Jun 5 '19 at 15:29

I do agree with d.george but You need check valves your system will never build pressure when the water can back flow through those T’s back to the source, since you have a booster pump elevating the second pressure tank is a waste at most in a residential setting you will have 10 psi from the tank in the ground floor from the 2nd floor (if only gravity feed and up on the second floor it will be only a couple of pounds per square inch). Make sure to install at least 1 check valve in the green line at the T so the water can not return to the source but if power is not turned on you will still have water flow from the source in fact the flow from the system will charge your system to the highest pressure from the main since the pressure is trapped by the check valve this in itself may help quite a bit depending on the size of your pressure tanks.

  • There are check valves installed on the system. I just didn't include them in the above images.
    – Zane
    Jun 5 '19 at 18:25

After studying the drawing of the installed water system and especially the upper tank, there is no way that your system can operate effectively unless there are more controls, vents, piping or other devices installed on that tank that are not shown. That tank needs to have a different piping arrangement and/or controls if it is to be a vented tank. If it is a pressurized vessel similar to a bladder tank it needs to be piped differently. It can't possibly work being piped as shown. Adding a 2nd pressure tank as shown inside the orange dashed lines will not help correct the problem. Unless I am wrong, that tank on the 2nd floor will weigh approximately 1100lbs or 500 kilos. that is a lot of weight on an upper floor.

  • Since I see no new posts, have you been able to correct the problems with your water system? If you have a solution, what did you do? Just curious
    – d.george
    Jun 13 '19 at 11:11

I have a suggestion for Members' reference, but no description is absolutely...while no harm in trying guys

  1. Water supply directly connect to 2nd floor Storage Tank by using floating valve (leaves a T point also,before inlet to)

  2. Joint the booster pump to 2nd floor S.T; add a reducer at booster pump inlet (reduces smaller to pump); add a check valve for the boosted point

  3. n the boosted point can support whole house by multiple pipe line joint together with main water supply; Under adapted conditions the T point before S.T.

It’s can connect pressure tank in ☝️ line with the booster outlet

  • 1
    Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I've tried to format your question, but it still comes across as gibberish; would you edit it to make it clearer? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to contribute here. Apr 7 '20 at 12:02

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