Any recommends on what tool I should use and how I can go about not ruining the finish?
Here's a close up of the top:
And here's the finished product - thanks for all the help! I used a pipe cutter and it worked great.
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The bases of the stand look as if the pole is welded to it. Unless you have welding skills, cutting at the base probably will not work.
The top appears to consist of a thinner pole that the speaker is attached to, inserted into a slightly larger pole that is attached to the base. In addition, there is a locking knob that seems to go through a threaded hole in the outer pipe, which probably presses on the inner pipe, allowing the speakers to be raised higher.
You probably need to cut down the outer pipe the same amount that you want the speakers to drop. This will eliminate the adjustable mechanism, but you may not care. If you need adjustable, you could drill and tap (thread) the outer pipe lower down, but that is a hard job needing specialized tools. You could solve it by drilling a series of small holes in the inner pipe and using a small rod (even a large nail) put through one of the holes and resting on the top of the outer pipe.
Depending on how long the inner pipe is, it may not allow the speaker to drop to the newely lowered outer pipe level. In that case, you need to cut a section off the bottom of the inner pipe.
Several other answers address how to cut the pipe. Many of them will work, depending on the tools you have.
Once you insert the inner pipe into the shortened outer pipe, you may have some rattling since you have eliminated the locking knob. This can be cured by wedging a small sliver of plastic between the inner and outer pipes (sometimes even cardboard will do). You also could create an alternative locking system by working out a clamp at the top of the outer pipe, but if you are not adjusting, that may be too much trouble and would not look as neat.
SUPPLEMENT: Based on the additional picture, you have a plastic grommet that tops the outside pipe. Once this is inserted in the cut down pipe, it will probably eliminate any rattling. If it does not, you still can wedge a small wire or plastic piece between the inner pipe and the grommet to tighten it up.
Examine the where the pole connects to the base, looking to see if you can easily remove the base. If you can, then what you want to do is cut the bottom off the pole and re-attach the base. You will need a hacksaw and a miterbox to get a square cut (OR a large pipecutter (you can rent those at local tool rental) OR a chopsaw with abrasive blade)). You will probably need to drill some new holes to re-attach the bases, etc.
Pipe cutter will give you the cleanest, squarest cut - but you may need to flare the inside back out a bit, since the cutter tends to squeeze the end down a little.
Chop saw will be fairly clean and square and not squeeze the end down.
Hacksaw and miterbox are probably the things that most people will have the easiest access to, and if done carefully, will give acceptable results.
Wrap the pipe with masking tape,mark the height with a pen so you have a precise line.As @ dbracey has suggested use a pipe cutter. The tape will protect the finish from the quide roller of the cutter. Any type of rotary saw will generate enough heat to mar the finish. Also cutting a straight line with a saw will be difficult.
You could use most kinds of metal cutting tools - but go for a relatively fine one, whether it be a small circular saw on a Dremel tool, or a fine jigsaw or something else.
No matter what cutting tool you use, you should expect some sharp edges or burrs, so be prepared to file them down smooth.
You will then probably need to weld the bracket back on to the new top of the posts, so think about where the weld will be. With the tilt on the speakers, the welds may be partially hidden, but you may wish to repaint the entire stand to hide these.