I posted previously in regards to an exterior window trim issue I discovered, where the previous home owner did not put any waterproofing around the window.

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I have since waterproofed around the windows using foam and silicone. However, the silicone is exposed and I would like to cover it with trim again (now that it is properly? sealed).

Is there anything I should keep in mind prior to putting on trim again? I was just going to brad nail it on, and maybe silicone between the trim and window.

--- UPDATE ---

So I decided to just not use trim. I stuffed backing rod in the gaps around the window, and siliconed the heck out of everything. These windows are now completely water tight. I am now going to put the highest quality paintable caulk I can find on the silicone then paint. As mentioned, the trim really only makes the problem worse by catching water and such. Thanks everyone for all the helpful comments and critiques!

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    The problem with reinstalling that trim is that it creates a pocket for water. Caulk eventually fails. I'd be taking all that round molding off, filling the gap with vinyl trim boards ripped to width (either just proud or just shy of the window face), and caulking all seams. I didn't post this as an answer because it doesn't addressed what you asked. – isherwood May 23 '19 at 14:38
  • My main issue is that the silicone gets dirty and looks unsightly. Is there anyway around that? Or should I just clean the silicone every few months? – Shinobii May 23 '19 at 14:49
  • Silicone does that. There are better caulks available, such as urethane. – isherwood May 23 '19 at 15:01
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    You were the first to point out molding on bottom of window. They seem to be replacements to small thats why all this caulking put in . – user101687 May 24 '19 at 14:40

The window or windows appear to be replacement windows. The installer should have never installed a piece at the bottom,and cut the side trim to fit to the sill. The bottom sill is most likely sloped to allow water to drain off and placing the quarter round, or any trim would create a dam to allow the water to back up to the inside of the house.

The trim on the outside should be removed the rest of the way, seal the joint between the window and jamb with caulk and backer rod if needed and install new trim fully back primed, cut ends too. Set the new trim in place with galvanized nails, 1 1/2" will do, while the caulk is still wet so it "beds in" using a high grade water based caulk to make the oozy mess easier to clean up with a sponge and a 5 gallon bucket of water.

The bottom should be caulked only, wiped in flush and smooth with the same damp sponge that cleans the excess caulk, squeezing it out really hard to keep the sponge drip free.

Silicone although it has its uses, such as places that do not need painting, to me is highly rated. Many new caulks are out there that perform very well and can be painted over. Perhaps if the new caulk will stick to the silicone, it can be "colored in" with the same white caulk that is used around the perimeter trim.

  • Gotcha. Caulk would be much easier to work with! And, as suggested, I can paint over it without worry. I did already do the backer rod and silicone all around the windows (all 6 of them). But now the silicone is getting dirty, and looks awful, hence the trim debacle! I will try and embed the trim in a gooey mess, assuming either caulk or silicone will stick to silicone. – Shinobii May 24 '19 at 19:15
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    Do not use silicone, only a water based caulk with a long guarantee on the label. Silicone will not clean up nicely, it is actually nightmarish if not done carefully – Jack May 25 '19 at 1:18
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    Already did the silicone. Wasn't terrible, but yes, not the nicest finish. Hence, I will go over it with paintable 35 year caulk (and finish with paint). – Shinobii May 26 '19 at 2:37

First off, don't use wood trim. Vinyl trim is easy to find and it won't rot.

Second, you can use an air nailer if you can avoid the window. Caulk will cover the holes. I would suggest using galvanized nails. If you don't feel comfortable, or you don't own an air nailer, the next best option is construction adhesive. If you went vinyl trim MAKE SURE THE ADHESIVE SUPPORTS VINYL. If you don't, it may eat the trim instead. Make sure it's outdoor as well. The catch with adhesive is it will make future repairs harder.

Third, get a good outdoor grade caulk. It will prevent water intrusion

  • Crap, already bought and cut the wood trim to size. . . Is there a particular vinyl trim I should use? Is here such thing as vinyl quarter round? I do have a brad nailer with galvanized nails. For caulk I bought the most expensive silicone I could find meant for exterior jobs. – Shinobii May 23 '19 at 15:28
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    Yes, they make vinyl quarter round. Should be relatively easy to find – Machavity May 23 '19 at 15:29
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    The alternative is to paint your wood with exterior semigloss paint and just keep an eye on it. – Machavity May 23 '19 at 15:31

If wood trim is what you have than use it. Pre -cut trim to fit prime and paint all surfaces on bare wood. Add couple coats finish paint let it all dry. Apply a small bead of caulk before putting on mold ,this really helps called back caulking. Nail it screw it what ever you choose. If nailing in trim on the ends drill holes so trim wont split. you can open and close the window so window wont break and molding not making it not work. Apply more caulking,let dry. I would put two more coats of paint on. Should last along time. There was a comment about the molding holding water. And i see the same. Was this part of the window, or some one just added own trim? It does look like it acts like a dam. Im not getting into caulk debate, Ask a real painter.

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    After seeing some post flags about trim show up. I found it odd wright away ,Yes they do look like replacement windows that did not fit well so they add molding . – user101687 May 24 '19 at 14:36
  • Yep, this seems to be the case. Unfortunately the house flipper did not do the best job. – Shinobii May 24 '19 at 19:19

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