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I’m trying to change the light switch in my house which was built in the 70’s. It’s a 4 switch panel, with a flip switch on each end and 2 dimmer turn knobs in the middle. The old switches had: - 2 black wires going to the first switch (a 3-way switch) - 1 (ONE!) black wire going to the second dimmer (not sure but I think it’s a single pole) - 1 black and 1 red wire going to the 3rd dimmer (think it’s a 3-way) - 1 black and 1 white wire going to the 4th switch (single pole) And then a grounding wire running between all 4. I can’t figure out for the life of me how to reconnect this puzzle. Any ideas?enter image description hereenter image description here

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    Can you post photos looking into the back of the box? – ThreePhaseEel May 20 at 3:27
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    How many separate light fixtures were actually controlled? 2, 3 or 4? – manassehkatz-Reinstate Monica May 20 at 3:38
  • It controls 4 fixtures. From right to left, they control: An overhead light fixture, the fan that goes with that fixture (separate switch), 3 can light fixtures, and the outlets by our bed – Michael May 20 at 11:33
  • Can you post a photo that shows a closer-up view of the back of the box? – ThreePhaseEel May 20 at 11:42
  • Added picture close up of back of the box – Michael May 20 at 12:25
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I solved my own problem, but would love some input confirming that I'm not going to cause an electrical fire. Essentially I wired what I could, but had to use what was done before: free copper wires running between all 4 switches to bring the current from 1st to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th switches. There is no grounding wire, because there was none before. Any suggestions or warnings?

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    Sharing the hot like that is fine, as long as the neutrals are also shared and everything is on one circuit. Neutral is not switched or breakered, so if you had two separate circuits before and now (due to wire confusion) all hot from one but neutrals from two then things could be quite a mess (probably not a fire because the neutral would be under rather than over-loaded; but definitely a shock hazard). So making sure the switches/devices/neutrals are all on the same circuit is key. – manassehkatz-Reinstate Monica May 22 at 15:05
  • Just to confirm, please tell me that "free copper wires" means "short pieces of insulated copper wire" and not "bare uninsulated wires" (i.e., "free in range of motion/attachment, not free from insulation). – manassehkatz-Reinstate Monica Jun 21 at 16:08

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