I need to replace this plug on my 120v AC unit. (Cord is in good condition) Lowe's has a similar plug but with only three wire connections ( I would like to use this stock plug as an OEM replacement cost more than the air-conditioner is worth $100+) Can I use it and what do I do with the 4 wires on my existing plug to use the 3-wire plug with only three connections?

The Frigidaire FAC105P1A is a 10,000 BTU Energy Star Compliant electronic compact air conditioner with electronic controls.

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  • Your photo is so close up it's hard to make out what we're looking at. Try zooming out a bit.
    – brhans
    Apr 29, 2019 at 0:35
  • What is the manufacturer and model of the AC unit? Apr 29, 2019 at 0:46
  • Is the cord damaged or just the plug? Apr 29, 2019 at 0:49
  • Did/does the plug have TEST/RESET buttons on it? Apr 29, 2019 at 1:34
  • Are you able to remove the little circuit board and get a picture of the back? The shield almost certainly connects to the ground wire, either directly or possibly through some kind of filter or resistor, but that may be easy to add to the three-wire replacement plug.
    – Nate S.
    May 1, 2019 at 16:20

2 Answers 2


This is not a GFCI plug, it is an LCDI plug. The copper pigtail 4th wire is a dead giveaway.

The bare wire is a mesh that surrounds the hot and neutral wire. The circuit detects if there is a Leakage Current between the hot and neutral wires and the surrounding mesh, which would indicate a damaged cable. The purpose of this is to prevent a fire hazard. Because the AC pulls a lot of current, a damaged cable can get hot and start an electrical fire. (The internal insulator can be damaged with no visible exterior damage.)

No one really sells replacement LCFD plugs, because (in theory) the design of the cabling requires differently rated current detection circuits.

But you can buy a new LCDI cable from Amazon or maybe a local HVAC shop. Just make sure it's rated for the sufficient wattage. (Almost all will be, but you never know.) You will have to remove the casing from the AC unit to connect the leads internally, which is a bit more hassle than working with a cable. But worth it to prevent a fire!

However, the unit will still work if you tape off the outer mesh wire, and connect the hot, neutral, and ground to a regular GFCI replacement you can get at any hardware store. You will gain shock protection, but lose fire protection, since most of these LCDI plugs don't include GFCI, though some models might. (I wouldn't recommend this, though, don't know if your insurance would cover a fire if it started one. It might be okay as a short-term solution until you can order a new cable if you are burning up and need to cool right away.)

Might be best to remove your defective cable first, so you can visually check if the leads on a replacement will be compatible (sufficient length, compatible fasteners, etc.)


Based on the owner's manual the plug includes a GFCI. I would definitely replace with a GFCI unless you are 100% certain that the receptacle is protected by GFCI elsewhere (either in the receptacle or upstream). The manual is for multiple models so it does not state the power requirements. However, there are a number of indications that this size unit is designed to use a 15A circuit (20A would be fine too) but should be the only appliance on that circuit (because current draw >= 50% of circuit capacity).

What you need is something like this replacement GFCI plug

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  • That plug looks similar to the one they have at Home Depot however the problem is it only has connections for three wires and my current plug has the fourth bare wire. The current plug does have a reset and test button As does the replacement from Home Depot.
    – user101013
    May 1, 2019 at 15:07

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