Regular breakers are already time-delay/dual-element, so you don't need an extra device for this. You could just downbreaker at the panel. Change the 20A breaker for a 15, or if you're willing to hunt down a 10A, do that.
Each series point in a circuit has exactly the same current, so it doesn't matter where the breaker/fuse is located.
Besides, fuseholders may be readily available as components, but that doesn't mean it's easy to mount them in a safe, Code-legal and serviceable manner.
Speaking of components.... You must stop buying electrical components on eBay, AliExpress/AliBaba, or Amazon Marketplace. (For the difference see this post). This stuff is almost all cheap Cheese junk that has never, and will never, see the inside of a reputable testing lab like Underwriter's Laboratories (UL).
For mains wiring this type of imported junk is prohibited by NEC 110.2, which requires items be approved (by your local authority, but they defer to UL and comparable labs such as CSA or TUV). CE is not a testing lab.
Sellers on Amazon Marketplace lie constantly about "By (manufacturer)", but in all fairness, this one looks legit. Here, it appears the US factory is using Amazon's warehouse as a drop-shipper so they don't need to staff their own shipping department. When you do this -- a few more clicks and you're on Amazon Marketplace, and Prime members get free 2-day shipping.