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QUESTION

What is the name of the wooden beam that supports fascia, drip edge, soffit, and gutter? The nomenclature is important because it is hard (if not impossible) to Google anything without knowing what it is called.

CONTEXT

A contractor has accepted gutter replacement, however, several wooden boards have begun rotting. The beam must be replaced before installing the gutter.

I am trying to look up or estimate the labor replacement cost per linear foot to replace said wooden beam in zip code 32084. Ideally there would be a calculator for the exercise.

I am trying to gain a sense of what it costs to have a craftsman to perform the task, I may be inclined to DIY-it if the estimates are high enough.

I am new at this: any guidance, lessons-learned, pitfalls to avoid are appreciated.

Front of building:

enter image description here

enter image description here

Rear of building: enter image description here

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    This question will probably get closed as pricing is off topic, but a lineal foot calculation couldn't possibly capture the subtleties of replacing a fascia board. It could be really simple and it could be really hard, depending on a universe of factors. If you really need to, get 3 quotes from licensed and insured contractors who have actually seen the problem. – Aloysius Defenestrate Mar 27 at 12:31
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    No reason to close. The provided contextual information isn't particularly relevant to the actual question, but it doesn't call for cost-related answers. – isherwood Mar 27 at 13:45
  • Agreed. The OP has edited the question to be less price focused. Thanks, OP. – Aloysius Defenestrate Mar 27 at 17:30
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What you see exposed in that picture is the fascia board. There is usually a fascia cover board on most homes as well. However, your fascia is covered with siding. I would recommend determining what is actually causing the rot and repairing that first. I see a huge issue in your photos. Your shingle overhang is way too short in places. It appears that some places have no overhang at all. Your shingles need to hang at least 1/2"-3/4" past the drip edge. When shingles are not hanging past the drip edge, the water will simply run over and under the drip edge and into your fascia material below.

enter image description here

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We've always referred to that a subfascia. Even in cases where cedar or other wooden finish fascia is applied, raw lumber is installed on the rafter tails as a base.

Caveat: I can't be sure of what I'm seeing in the first photo. I initially thought that was an old cedar finish fascia, but your photo showing the rear clearly indicates raw SPF (pine). That would not be a finish fascia, but could be a recent replacement for rotten finish fascia.

Update: Apparently the board in question is a 2x6. That would, in most cases, indicate a subfascia as described above.

  • Does the zoom-out photo clarify what you are seeing? The outer fascia is aluminum – gatorback Mar 27 at 13:52
  • No, but what might confirm is the thickness dimension. A two-by would be subfascia. Thinner would be fascia. Probably. – isherwood Mar 27 at 13:55
  • Does the statement clarify? The photographed rotten wood board's cross section is 2 by 6 inches: the aluminum fascia, drip edge, and soffits are fastened to said wooden board. – gatorback Mar 27 at 14:02
  • Apparently it is subfascia then, but I seriously doubt those are the dimensions. :) I'd speculate that they're 1-1/2" by 5-1/2". – isherwood Mar 27 at 14:04

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