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Recently the electric motor of my water distiller just stopped working (as discussed in other pages).
After some struggle, I've finally found a new electric motor and was able to make the appliance work again:

 

However, there was some gimmicks along the way:

  • Wires, cables and connectors

  • Minor differences between the electric motors

    • The coil of the new motor is 'exposed' while in the original there is some kind of 'tape protection'.
    • The new motor has a shaft thicker than the original motor, which required a new propeller.
    • The shaft's bevel was extended in order to keep the propeller at the same original height and not touching the top case.

Questions

Considering I'm not an expert on the topic, I still feel somewhat insecure to turn on the boiler. Things get pretty hot near the radiator and I'm not sure I have protected everything properly:

  • What is the purpose of the 'tape protection' over the coil of the original electric motor? Should I reproduce that on the new electric motor?
  • The insulating tape I've applied should be able to withstand the heat?
  • The distiller was properly repaired and reassembled? Is it reasonable to expect that it should last again for several years? Is it safe to use it like that?

Additional Notes

New Electric Motor

Manufacturer's Tag (view):

  • Model: YJ61-10E(21) CL B
  • 120 VAC, 60Hz, 20W
  • Manufacturer: Hunan Keli Motor LTD

ps: The original electric motor has no tag.

 

Insulating Tape

Manufacturer's Description (view | site):

  • Insulating and Anti-Flame Tape
  • Composition: pvc film with adhesive and rubber base
  • Application: insulation of wires and electrical cables up to 750V and 90ºC
  • Made in China
  • Valid until June 2022

Follow Up

According to some advices, the power supply connector was too close to the bare metal chassis.
To solve that I've completely reworked the connection:

Comments?

  • you should not be using green wires for power .... that color is for ground wires – jsotola Mar 19 at 7:01
  • @jsotola What colors should I be using? Exactly the same as the original (red+green)? – Mark Messa Mar 19 at 10:57
  • Can you bend the motor connections slightly to move them away from the radiator? I would assume that the temp rating for the plastic connectors will be fine, what did the package say? Also, maybe you need to solder your wires on and use a liquid electrical tape. The rubber over the bullet connector is just to allow for insulating, any other kind should work as long as it is tolerant of the heat. Can you operate the device without the case to monitor temps and see how things work? Also, shaft size and fan blade are not a huge issue, RPM of the motor is what you would want to get close to or.... – Jeff Cates Mar 20 at 4:24
  • ...faster than the original.Wire color...well, you could use what was there originally, or use a red and red/white. If green was used then you could use green. In a small countertop appliance, manufacturers don't use the standard US colors for wires. – Jeff Cates Mar 20 at 4:26
  • @JeffCates > "Can you bend the motor connections slightly to move them away from the radiator?" Such connections were already bended in the pictures I've posted. If I bend more, there is a risk of damaging the solder between the coil and the connector. The wires are so thin that, in this case, I'm not sure I will be able to solder them again. – Mark Messa Mar 20 at 4:51

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