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So I have this 1961 year old House.

These days, when sheathing (plywood) is placed, it's placed directly on the structural studs, and nailed.

But my house has this strip of 11/16" wood placed across the 2 by 4 structural studs before the sheathing was installed. I have attached the picture. This strip of wood basically pushes the sheathing 11/16" away from the 2 by 4 wall studs.

on the first Picture, I am referring to the strip of wood that runs parallel to the ground. The second picture is closeup picture but flipped 90 degrees counterclockwise. But you can see the strip I am referring to.

So if I order a door with Jamb size of 4-9/16, will I still be OK? Or do I have to order custom? The door I plan to order comes with frame installation flange, and I want to keep that flange. So what do you all say? Thank you.
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  • FYI, "sheathing", as in a knife sheath. Sheets of sheathing. – isherwood Mar 1 at 16:34
  • So what's the total measurement from inside of framing to outside of framing (which includes the sheathing)? – isherwood Mar 1 at 16:36
  • Isherwood, the measurement I got from the inside of the rough opening to the outside of the "sheathing" is 4-1/2. 3-1/2" for the jack stud, 11/16" for the strip of wood I mentioned, and 5/16 for the sheathing. – alemiss Mar 1 at 16:39
  • That's very thin sheathing. Are you sure? Did you measure or add? – isherwood Mar 1 at 16:40
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    I added it. I will have to measure total width to confirm. I will check again in a few minutes and post. – alemiss Mar 1 at 16:43
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I'm not sure that I fully understand your situation, but from what I think you're describing, you should be able to inset one side of the door frame without the flange by 11/16 and add a spacer or "extension" to bring the frame's edge flush with the wall's surface--and then attach molding, etc. on top of that as usual.

I've done that with a garage door that I installed one time and lived in houses with non-standard thickness walls and that's how it was done on those too.

Extension on jamb

  • Thanks Gregory, basically my jamb size is 11/16' thicker than a normal jamb size for a 2 by 4 wall. And that is due to the 11/16" strip of wood between the sheating and the wall studs. So, you are suggesting I remove the flanges? I really wanted to keep those flanges, because this door is going to be 12 feet wide and I want the installation to go as recommended by the manufacturer. – alemiss Mar 1 at 16:04
  • @alemiss Any chance of a picture of the flanges? Or a make/model of the door? – Greg Nickoloff Mar 1 at 16:27
  • Yes sure, it's Anderson A series 4 Panel Gliding Patio door, I have added a screen capture from the installation PDF file in my original comment....the Full PDF for the door installation is on Andersen website at awwebcdnprdcd.azureedge.net/-/media/aw/files/technical-docs/… – alemiss Mar 1 at 16:34
  • @alemiss I thought you were talking about a hinged door like in the pictures included with the question, but I think the flanges would remain intact. The jamb extension would be added to the opposite side of the jam (extreme right in the drawing) and then finishing molding, etc. attached over that. – Greg Nickoloff Mar 1 at 16:44
  • Ok thank god, I really didn't want to mess with the original door by removing the flanges. So, jamb extension from the inside of the door will be needed, correct? – alemiss Mar 1 at 16:47

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