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I recently had to disconnect the toilet connected to this pipe, and on connecting it back I seem to have accidentally twisted it (despite efforts to the contrary.) This has caused a tiny leak on one of the yellow elbows.

It's plastic pipe, looks to be 10mm, is from a house in the UK built around 2000, and seems to be really hard not to twist.

What type of pipe is this, and what should I do now to try to fix it - should the elbows be replaced, and if so with what / how? How can I try to avoid twisting it in the future when I do this sort of work?

pipe

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  • The yellow parts look vaguely like sharkbite-type fittings, but not at all sure. And where's the shutoff, in the grey metal part up top, so you need a screwdriver handy in case of a leak?
    – Xen2050
    Commented Feb 28, 2019 at 13:13
  • @Xen2050 The toilet is the top of the picture, and the valve on the grey metal part has the valve to shut it off to the toilet. The mains shutoff is needed to isolate the rest of the pipe, but fortunately that's also readily accessible.
    – berry120
    Commented Feb 28, 2019 at 13:28

1 Answer 1

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What type of pipe is this

Just plain 15mm plastic pipe for domestic water supplies. The elbow fitting looks like John Guest Speedfit, so the pipe may have been selected to match but I believe everything is pretty compatible nowadays.

See How to remove this plastic pipe elbow (scroll down for Speedfit)

should the elbows be replaced, and if so with what / how?

I would replace the elbow and the short vertical section of pipe. Use the same type of connectors (for consistency, no other reason). I'd check the condition of the pipe stub from the wall and clean it up if necessary.

See question linked above for how to remove elbow. Obviously you have to turn off the main stopcock and have some old towels or equivalent to soak up spillage. You may need to bung the loft tank ("attic" for leftpondians though you generally don't have this kind of arrangement AFAIK) or turn off a valve in the cold supply from the loft (otherwise you have to tie up the float valve that fills the tank and then drain the main loft tank which takes ages through a bath tap for example)

How can I try to avoid twisting it in the future when I do this sort of work?

I usually clamp a mole-wrench (leftpondian: vise-grip) onto the body of the service valve and hold that firmly immobile with one hand while using a spanner in the other hand to loosen the nut at the top. Some service valve have flats on the body for this purpose but many don't. Take care not to crush the valve (I've never done this but it might be possible with a large mole-wrench and excessive enthusiasm)

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