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enter image description hereenter image description hereenter image description hereOK, in a rehab of existing outlets I came across a 30A dryer receptacle on a 50A breaker with 12/3 AWG.

Needless to say I am not happy. In looking at the breaker box, the white and bare ground are inserted into the ground strip. And they were twisted together in the 30A receptacle.

This b box comes directly off the 100A service and NOT through the main panel.

What I am looking into is to add a 100A double throw breaker box from the service line in front of the 50A box, change the wire to 6/3 AWG and replace the receptacle to a 50A outlet to use as a 40A range circuit. I've got a 3 wire 50A range cord to go with it.

Does this sound safe and do I still twist the white and bare together at the outlet box? Thanks fellas.

Well, I am not at the location and AFAIR there was no panel info on the box.

After you guys asked more ? I am beginning to think that replacing this box with the new C-H box I have and putting in new 50A breakers and call it good.

Although, I'd like to have a means to shut this circuit down from the service line if need be. This line from there runs through the attic down through the eave.

  • Can you post photos of the existing box? You may be able to fit that 100A main breaker into it... – ThreePhaseEel Feb 21 '19 at 0:26
  • Where are the wires feeding this box tapped off from the service at? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 21 '19 at 1:29
  • Is that a trick of the light @ThreePhaseEel, or is that a 1" wide CH breaker? And is that 2 more breaker spaces up top, oh wait NVM, you can't put a breaker in upside down anymore. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Feb 21 '19 at 1:48
  • Can you post a photo of any labeling you find on this panel for taht matter? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 21 '19 at 3:06
  • I added the pics, had to find them first on my phone. Sorry for the delayed response. Any help/direction is welcome if I can get a solid agreement from you all, it's a big help. – D.Rob Feb 21 '19 at 3:46
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Since this is a sub panel the bare copper grounding wire needs to be connected to the case of the box and the neutral white needs to be on an isolated buss to meet current code. You are not required to have a main breaker but if not in close proximity to the main panel I usually suggest one so you can work on the panel. The panel should have a 4 wire feed from the main, 2 Hot, 1 neutral and a ground.

  • Ed, there is no Neutral from the service tap. – D.Rob Feb 22 '19 at 0:39
  • So you only have 240v loads? – Ed Beal Feb 22 '19 at 0:58
  • See the 2nd photo above. The entry to the attic (just above and left of the weatherhead) is to this box I am dealing with. It only has 2 hots and a ground. – D.Rob Feb 22 '19 at 1:07
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Get a 4-prong outlet and a 4-prong cord, but don't bother with the extra breaker unless you're changing the panel out

Since the box in question is so small (a spa panel, really), I wouldn't bother with the extra circuit breaker if you can find a 40A breaker that replaces the existing 30A breaker in the box. On the other hand, if you can get the power cut to it safely, then I would consider replacing it with a larger panel with a proper main breaker in it -- an 8-space, 200A, convertible-main mobile home panel with feed-through lugs that has been field-fitted with a 100A main breaker is a good option here, as it can easily be migrated to be a subpanel, or be a main panel instead if you want to convert the existing panel to be a subpanel.

Your choice of 6/3 W/G for the new range circuit is well and good, but you need to use a 4-prong (NEMA 14-50) range receptacle and matching 4-prong cord for your range here -- neutral and ground stay separate at the receptacle as a result, and you also need to pull the bonding strap inside the range when you fit the new cord.

  • I don't enjoy 200A service to the main as it stands. First quote I got was $1,300 to run it and my budget couldn't tote that. The present box has a twin 50A breaker. Not sure where I can do some things and then hire the rest to drop that $$$. The range affords a three wire hookup per info badge on chassis. – D.Rob Feb 21 '19 at 3:59
  • @D.Rob -- the idea behind the box I suggested is that it provides flexibility for the future, and you must use the four-wire hookup for a new range receptacle -- unless the range is ancient, it will support a four-wire hookup. – ThreePhaseEel Feb 21 '19 at 12:31
  • I guess I don't follow. The service tap to this new 200A box (eliminating the present b box) would support the whole house as a Main, then make the existing main a feeder? Drop off that new box to the 4 prong 50A receptacle for the range? It's early and I've only had 1 cup o Joe. – D.Rob Feb 21 '19 at 14:53
  • See new photo at OP. – D.Rob Feb 21 '19 at 15:02
  • @D.Rob -- the idea is that my specification for the new box gives you (or a future owner) the flexibility to configure the two boxes in whatever way you/they desire to untangle the situation. The four-wire hookup for the range is the more important part, though. – ThreePhaseEel Feb 21 '19 at 23:38

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