I finished my basement that was roughed in 10 years ago and found out that my refrigerator plug is on the end of the GFCi line of plugs. There is only one GFCi plug nearest to the box that feeds the line of plugs to the refrigerator. When I plugged in my older refrigerator it tripped the GFCi plug. How do I make the plug that the refrigerator plugs into at the end of the line a non-GFCi? If I put that one gfci plug on the line only, would I then install a GFCI plug all the way down to the fridge and they will still be GFCI covered?
I’m not going to address the issue of if a GFCI is required but instead directly address the asked question.
On a GFCI outlet, the are two sets of hot/neutral connections, “line” and “load”. The incoming power is connected to the “line” terminals. Downstream outlets to be protected are connected to the “load” terminals.
What you can do, on the GFCI, is disconnect the downstream wires from the “load” side and instead connect them, along with the power wires, to the “line” side. (You should probably do this with wirenuts connecting the wires along with short wires (pigtails) to the outlet.) This will remove the GFCI protection from all of the downstream outlets. Any that still need protection should be replaced by additional GFCI outlets, keeping everything connected to the “line” terminals.
Refrigerators should not have GFCI protection. That is a huge mistake, and you know why.
There's also the worse variant where the trip goes undetected for a couple days, someone resets it to use a power socket, never realizes the fridge was on it, and the fridge rechills before anyone realises the food is spoiled. The food is then served, spoiled, to a child or elderly person. Let me tell you, aides do not check food they give to seniors!
Because of that, there is an exception in Code for refrigerators and freezers even where GFCI is normally required. The receptacle must be a single (not the usual twin) and say "freezer only" etc.
Your refrigerator has a leakage. My suggestion is to try it on a RCD with little less sensitivity (30mA). If leakage is big and the bigger RCD still trip it means the refrigerator is gone bad and has to be replaced.
I don't understand how there you can leave unprotected such appliances where just getting a different breaker you get protection and no nuisance trip. Where in case of leakage and broken PE you still get full voltage from the appliance.