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If you take apart an existing PEX connection, is it going to perform correctly if you re-crimp the same end of the tube - without cutting it - to a new fitting?

Often with PEX you can flex it a bit and get a little more length, and probably if that is the case you should cut a fresh end. But if you really have NO additional length to work with... would this work?

Assume that the tube end isn't damaged while removing it from the original fitting (which can be difficult). A really warped, cut, or otherwise mangled pipe end may pose a greater risk and isn't what I'm really thinking of. That said, even a carefully removed tube will have some distortion from the barbs it was pressed into.

Thanks

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I think that you'd probably have to ask your Pex manufacturer to get an official answer as to whether or not this is recommended. But I can say based on personal experience that I've occasionally done what you propose without issue. And if you try it and it turns out not to work because the connection leaks, it will only have cost you a ~$0.50 crimp ring, plus however long it took you to cut off the original ring.

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  • Thanks, that is good to hear. I agree, it seems like a reasonable thing to try first, before resorting to cutting it shorter and splicing in a new section. I guess one concern is if it could fail a long time later, but PEX doesn't seem to work that way - if its good initially, its good. FWIW I always try to keep my PEX joints accessible somewhere! Commented Feb 1, 2019 at 11:16
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    Yes, in my experience if Pex is ever going to leak it leaks right away; it doesn't surprise you later. (The only exception is when I put a standard compression fitting with a brass ferrule on a Pex line, which led to a leak a week later; however, I later learned that you can't use brass ferrules on Pex, so the issue was my fault.) You could try knocking the junction around a good bit after you do the new fitting and see if you have issues; if it survives that, you're probably good to go. Commented Feb 2, 2019 at 15:03
  • I've since tried this and it has worked fine, zero problems so far (been in use for a decent while now). I did attempt to slightly offset the crimp location the second time, just to try and squeeze fresher material. But this might not really matter. Commented Mar 3, 2019 at 13:32
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    And 3+ years later, still no problems. Commented May 29, 2022 at 1:39
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Cut off about 6 inches of PEX at the used end and add a coupling and then add about 8 inches or new PEX. You get virgin pipe and a bit extra slack this way. (why do these plumbing posts always sound like a set up for a lewd joke?)

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  • Thanks this is a good alternative if reusing the end doesn't work & there's not enough length. Has the disadvantage of adding one more joint (potential point of failure) but on balance that may not really matter. Commented Feb 1, 2019 at 11:17
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Half year ago I put stainless steel 1" PEX-B barb pinch clamp on the same spot of my pipe where was a previous clamp installed. Still no leak. But, generally I'd not do it without very good reason.

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  • This doesn't add anything new beyond what was already in the accepted answer 5 years ago. Answers here are expected to stand alone and add new insights or information. Please take the tour to find out more about contributing at DIY.SE. Commented Mar 6 at 22:59
  • To Fredric Shope from dp0115: crimp rings mentioned in the post from Jan 29, 2019 at 1:37 are different than stainless Steel Pinch Clamps in my answer: they damage PEX pipe in another way. Using stainless Steel Pinch Clamp to rework PEX pipe was actual reason for my answer.
    – dp0115
    Commented Mar 7 at 20:14

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