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My dishwasher is a serious piece of equipment. It makes water hammers like crazy. So I put one of these things inline to the supply: enter image description here https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quiet-Pipes-Washing-Machine-Water-Hammer-Arrester-38600/100069256

Everything goes quiet for 2-3 days (2-3 runs of the dishwasher) and then it starts again. I assume it's breaking. I've got through 3 of these things, different brands (sioux chief also fails), they keep breaking.

Is there a more meaty version of this device or a different way to solve the problem?

  • What is your prv set to coming into the home, what is the pipe size between the cold supply to the dishwasher? Largest and smallest? Are you feeding off of the hot? If so, what is your hot set to? What kind of hot heater do you have? – noybman Jan 19 at 15:20
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    The house pressure tested at the outside water spigot closest to the incoming main is about 60psi. Not on well water, municipal, I should have mentioned that sorry. I do live on a big road, so the main coming into my house is like 150psi. – stu Jan 20 at 16:21
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    I don't have a hot water heater, I have a hot water tank, it gets it the heat from the boiler via a heat exchanger in the hot water tank. – stu Jan 20 at 16:24
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    The expansion tank is before the boiler, thus also before the hot water tank. the incoming pipe is 3/4", the supply to the dishwasher is 1/2" It only downsizes once, from 3/4" to 1/2", it doesn't go up and down. – stu Jan 20 at 16:26
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    1800sq feet. two bathrooms. It's a 30' or so straight run from the hot water tank to the space under the sink. then it goes up and turns 90 degrees to the dishwasher. at that point it goes to 1/2" – stu Jan 20 at 16:29
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Seeing some pictures of the plumbing overall could jog additional suggestions from others, but there are a number of things you can do to eliminate the hammer. Using the product you are buying is one of those things. I would NOT expect that it is breaking, but the fact that you state its good for a few days then no longer works and you replace it then it happens again a few days later gives me a few thoughts first off of what you should check.

Make sure there aren't any leaks, and that all connections are tight. Also make sure all plumbing is properly secured. This includes the hose/tubing for the dishwasher itself. In fact, ensure the arrestor you are installing is also secured and not moving around. Leaving these this laying on the floor coiled up allowing it to move around is just going to strengthen the water hammer. Also, the pipes involved should be properly secured with mounts. Once you have secured all plumbing properly, AND ensured the arrestor is installed properly and oriented properly-securely, there are additional things you can do.

Does your property have a water column tube going vertical anywhere? You may not even see it, but it may exist. If it does not, you can create one easily. Quick google shows what I'm talking about: https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/plumbing-repair/stop-banging-water-pipes/view-all/

Now, you may have one of these already. Turn off main water as it enters the home, and open the farthest, highest faucet in the home, then open the lowest/closest. Let the water drain from the plumbing. You can partially drain the hotwater tank to get the hot side of things done. You are just getting air back into any vertical columns put there by your plumber. If none exist, you can add them yourself, e.g., see the link above.

With that out of the way, you might actually choose to reduce your water pressure. Mind you, we all love water pressure, MORE IS BETTER right? Not always. In your case, you might want to lower it. More can be bad, and can shorten valve life for a number of applications, but 60 is alright. Try lowering it to 55, or 50. Generally keep it above 40, 45,.... and obviously to your liking in your home. But with two bathrooms, and reasonable length runs, you dont really need 60. Trial and error, give it a shot. Obviously dont increase it.

Lastly, and you can try this as a cheat method for what I just described, install a valve or partially close a valve upstream that feeds the dishwasher specifically. Again, this is trial and error, but limiting the flow just a tiny bit can have an impact.

Also, I mentioned the size of pipes because if you have some mineral buildup on any valves or pipe fittings, or pipes reduce in size and then go larger again, this can aggravate a water hammer issue if your diswasher solenoid is on-off on-off rapidly, because the water will move "abruptly". So it could be handy to ensure good flow too *(i.e., dont over restrict it somewhere)... this is less likely the issue.

If you question the quality of the mechanical arrestor you've purchased *(repeatedly), try a different one on for size and see. But sincerely, I'd work more on securing the pipes, and install a man made arrestor like pictured above.

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Get a 10 foot, 1/4" supply line and adapters to make it work. Dishwashers fill will a float usually, so the goal is to restrict the flow so that it doesn't hammer so bad, because I can't explain why it's doing it other than it doesn't like your 60 pounds (I'm used to 40).

Model number? What's the max incoming pressure....?

  • This will stop a water hammer as well, but mea culpa, I wasn't suggesting creating a "this will stop it" approach to the hammer... because invariably, 10' of tubing at a 1/4 is going to impact water temperature to the dishwasher and likely impact its effectiveness. – noybman Jan 20 at 23:07
  • If it can't heat the water to about 200 degrees its got worse problems than being noisy. – Mazura Jan 20 at 23:28

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