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My wall-mount garage door opener was pretty beat up when I moved in and has only gotten worse to the point the open/close button is cracked and is difficult to operate for my kids.

I would like to install a surface mount momentary switch for open/close functions as well as separate switch(es) for light control, and opener lockout (if it is necessary to have - otherwise omitted). How can I do this? I searched and haven't found details on how to do it yet, but suspect that it has to do with resistance value for each function. Would I just need to measure resistance changes as each switch is operated and put the corresponding value on the switch I want to replace?

I will run everything in conduit to the opener and safety sensors since I will be wiring the garage for new lighting and power circuits (separate conduit from low-voltage). I will also be installing a relay that will change state when the opener light circuit is turned on to power 1-2 shop lights instead of on-board lamps on the opener. The power for these will be fed from the sub panel with the lighting circuit on the opener causing the relay to open/close.

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    This is a bit of a hobby question as opposed to home improvement, but you should start by revising to mention what opener and control we're talking about. – isherwood Jan 9 at 22:15
  • Where are you on this planet for that matter? – ThreePhaseEel Jan 10 at 0:02
  • More information is needed. Model of opener? The information that the remote has multiple buttons suggests that it "may" be an electronic coded controller in which case a diy solution might be more hassle then it is worth. Best idea is order a replacement. Aside from that , take it apart and see if some crazy glue might repair the cracked buttons. Come to think of it, get another remote control and Velcro it to the wall. – user68386 Jan 10 at 22:30
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You may be overthinking this.

For controlling the switched-with-door fluorescent/LED lights, the opener already has a sophisticated way to do that which works with the remote. Start at the opener itself. Screw a NEMA 1 to Edison adapter into the lamp socket. From there, 2-prong plug and cord up to metal conduit, where you either have an inlet or strain relief. From there, the conduit goes to each lamp location. You also run a ground wire to a viable grounding point since the source has no ground.

If you don't like that plan, consider the GE RR7 relay, which takes a 24V momentary pulse to throw the lights on or off. It is specifically made and listed for lighting. However if that is not the same voltage your garage door opener runs on, you will need more relays.

For the garage door opener buttons, contact the factory. Since garage door buttons are low voltage wiring, you are free to improvise. Also if you count your buttons and there are one more wires than buttons, it is not using resistance etc.

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