1

I want to pass my ethernet, speaker and sub wires into my newly built media/bar cabinet, but I hate having to pass them under the door, so I'd like to drill a hole as shown by the green circle in the image.

enter image description here

Bad idea?

  • Yes, it's a good idea (see answer below). Based on your picture, it's a older house so there is likely a 4" stud that you'll need to drill through so be ready for that and be ready for nails. – HazardousGlitch Dec 29 '18 at 15:28
  • It doesn't deserve a new answer because the other ones are perfect in their own right. Just an addition: use a larger tool to make the hole, making sure that all current and future plugs can pass through, not just the wires. Then simply cover the hole with what is known as a cable (desk) grommet, something like this: ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8zAwbXnvEXKJk43KUq6xdxpXa4.jpg – Gábor Dec 29 '18 at 18:23
  • 1
    You're not going to run mains power through this, are you? – Harper - Reinstate Monica Dec 29 '18 at 18:29
3

Not a bad idea what so ever. However, let me clarify on the posted answer... A hole saw can be used to cut clean perfect holes, but are limited in cut depth. You'll most likely need to use the hole saw on both sides of the jamb.

A hole hog, as another commenter mentioned, is also known as an auger bit. It has a pointed threaded tip that will pull the bit thru whatever material you're trying to drill thru until the tip can't pull anymore. From there you'll need a little extra force to get the bit to finish it's cut.

Both are feasible tools for what you're looking to do.

  • 4
    Micro-note... the auger bit is likely to produce a bunch of tearout on the far side. Drill until the threaded point just emerges, then drill the remainder from that side. – Aloysius Defenestrate Dec 29 '18 at 17:25
  • A 3/8" bit extender will put a holesaw through anything; it's just a pita. – Mazura Dec 29 '18 at 20:16
  • 1
    If you get a long enough bit extender (like 18") you can put the hole inline with the track and go straight thru (butchering a hole from both sides, using whatever bits - 'butchered' because it will be at a slight angle and so needs be a little larger). – Mazura Dec 29 '18 at 20:23
  • 1
    A bit extender won't change the depth of the hole saw bit. If the hole saw bit depth is 2", then you can only cut 2" deep before you have to remove the plug from the bit to cut further... – BillWeckel Dec 29 '18 at 20:45
  • Would using a spade bit do the trick as well? – jwilcox09 Dec 30 '18 at 17:08
1

I would suggest getting a hole cutter instead of drilling a hole so the hole can be future proofed if you want to pass more wires someday.

  • 1
    Those both sound like drilling a hole to pass wires. Whats the difference between them? – HazardousGlitch Dec 29 '18 at 15:02
  • 1
    A hole cutter can make a bigger hole then a big gauged drill. In the past I have found it hard to turn a small hole into a bigger hole with a hole cutter because they're is nothing in the center for the drill bit to drill into. – Rohit Saxena Dec 29 '18 at 15:06
  • Never heard of it referred to as a hole cutter before. I'm used to hole saw for creating a very clean hole with a plug as a result and hole hog which cuts through very quickly, shredding everything in it's path, both which come in larger diameters than normal drill bits. – HazardousGlitch Dec 29 '18 at 15:16
  • Hole saw would be brutal to get through there, use an auger as @BillWickel suggests – Gary Bak Dec 29 '18 at 17:11
  • 1
    "hole saw" would be the normal name for a sawblade bent into a cylinder. "hole cutter" would be a something similar to a lathe cutter tool on a radial post something like a really big caliper that can be adjusted. OP probably doesn't have room for anything wide, and the drill's body will probably be the limiting factor, getting it pressed up against the adjacent wall while keeping the holesaw straight. – Criggie Dec 29 '18 at 21:30
1

Probably too late but I would actually go through the wall between the molding and the corner. Measure things on the side from the picture, transpose the hole location into the other room and drill from the other room. 3/4" auger or installer bit should fit fine. That's just me.

Drilling the frame will end up being like 5" of solid wood counting the doubled stud and the molding, drilling into that space will be just wall material/hollow cavity/wall material. It will also be less likely to cause issues in the future. Need larger hole? Elongate with a jab saw, and use those plastic cable hiders to cover the hole.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.